Your laundry basket overflows, detergent sits ready, and you’ve loaded the Maytag Centennial with precision. Yet pressing the start button produces nothing. No sounds, no lights, no indication that your washer acknowledges your existence. Or perhaps lights illuminate normally, creating false hope. Then cycles refuse to initiate despite repeated button pressing and growing frustration.
This complete failure to start represents one of appliance ownership’s most perplexing moments because the distinction between minor issues and catastrophic failures isn’t immediately obvious. Understanding the cascade of events that should occur when you press start—and identifying where that sequence breaks down—transforms this maddening situation from mysterious black box failure into a solvable puzzle with clear diagnostic pathways leading to specific, actionable solutions.
Maytag Centennial washers fail to start due to inadequate electrical supply from tripped breakers or blown fuses, faulty door/lid switches preventing safety engagement, activated control lock preventing operation, incorrect cycle selection incompatible with load conditions, failed control boards unable to process commands, broken start switches not transmitting signals, thermal fuse failures cutting power, loose wire connections interrupting circuits, or user control panel problems preventing input recognition.
Most no-start conditions stem from simple user errors or minor electrical issues rather than catastrophic component failures requiring expensive repairs.
Quick Diagnostic for a Maytag Centennial Washer Not Starting
| Symptom Category | Control Panel Behavior | Power Indicator | Most Likely Cause | Resolution Difficulty |
| Completely dead | No lights, no response | Off | No power supply or thermal fuse | Easy-Moderate |
| Lights on, no start | Normal illumination | On | Control lock or lid switch | Very Easy-Easy |
| Intermittent response | Flickers or random | On/Off | Loose connections or control panel | Moderate |
| Beeps but won’t start | Normal with error beeps | On | Cycle selection or lid switch | Very Easy |
| Delayed start engaged | Normal with countdown | On | User setting misunderstanding | Very Easy |
| Single button unresponsive | Most functions work | On | Failed start button | Moderate |
| All buttons unresponsive | Lights on but no response | On | Control panel or board failure | Hard |
| Power cycles then dies | Brief light then off | On then Off | Thermal overload or board | Moderate-Hard |
Why Won’t My Maytag Centennial Washer Start?
Understanding the complete startup sequence reveals the numerous potential failure points preventing your Centennial from beginning wash cycles.
The Normal Startup Sequence
When everything functions correctly, your washer follows a precise operational sequence from button press to cycle initiation. That include:
Power delivery
Electricity flows from your home’s circuit breaker through the power cord to the washer’s internal electrical system.
The control board receives continuous standby power. This allows the display panel to illuminate and buttons to respond.
User input recognition
Pressing control panel buttons sends signals to the control board.
The cycle selector communicates your chosen wash program. Option buttons modify the base cycle with additional features.
The start button sends the final command. This critical input tells the control board to begin the selected cycle.
Safety verification
Before starting, the control board verifies multiple safety conditions.
The lid switch confirms the lid is closed. Open lids prevent operation protecting users from rotating baskets.
The door lock engages on models equipped with this feature. Secure locking prevents mid-cycle lid opening.
Water supply valves show proper connection. Some models verify water source availability before starting.
Cycle initiation
With safety conditions satisfied, the control board begins the wash program.
The display updates showing current cycle phase. “Sensing” or “Fill” indicators illuminate.
Water inlet valves energize allowing water to enter. You hear distinct clicking sounds as valves open.
The motor receives power beginning basket or agitator movement. Mechanical sounds indicate the cycle has truly started.
Where the Sequence Breaks Down
Each step in this process represents a potential failure point. Identifying which step fails focuses troubleshooting efforts.
No power delivery creates completely dead washers. No lights, no sounds, no response to any buttons.
This total failure indicates problems before the control board. External electrical issues or internal power supply problems prevent all operations.
Power delivery with no input recognition shows illuminated displays that don’t respond to buttons.
The control board receives power but can’t process commands. This suggests control panel or board problems.
Input recognition without cycle start displays normal panel operation but cycles don’t begin.
The control board acknowledges buttons but refuses cycle initiation. Safety interlocks or cycle selection issues typically cause this.
Cycle initiation without progression shows the cycle starts but immediately stops.
This suggests the machine detects problems during startup safety checks. Component failures trigger immediate shutdown.
Common No-Start Categories
No-start failures fall into predictable categories guiding diagnostic approaches.
User error accounts for 40-50% of reported no-start problems. Control lock, delayed start, or incorrect settings prevent operation.
Simple corrections resolve these immediately. No repairs are necessary—just proper understanding.
Electrical supply issues create 20-30% of no-start situations. Tripped breakers or loose connections interrupt power.
Basic electrical troubleshooting identifies and corrects these problems quickly.
Safety interlock failures cause 15-20% of no-start conditions. Faulty lid switches or door locks prevent safety verification.
Component testing and replacement restore proper operation.
Control system failures comprise the remaining 10-15%. Failed control boards or panels require more complex intervention.
These represent the most expensive no-start repairs.
Troubleshooting a Maytag Centennial Washer Not Starting
Here are the systematic troubleshooting steps for your Maytag Centennial washer that wo’t start:
Step 1: Verify Electrical Power Supply
Always begin with the simplest possible causes before assuming component failures.
Check the obvious
Ensure the washer is plugged in completely.
Look behind the washer verifying the power cord connects fully to the wall outlet. Plugs work partially loose over time.
Wiggle the plug checking for secure connection. Loose plugs create intermittent power problems.
If possible, plug another device into the same outlet. Verify the outlet provides power to known-working items.
Inspect circuit breakers
Tripped breakers prevent all washer operation.
Locate your home’s electrical panel. Find the breaker labeled for the laundry room or washing machine.
Check breaker position carefully. Tripped breakers sit in a middle position between “on” and “off.”
Reset any tripped breaker by switching it fully off then back on. Don’t just push it toward “on.”
Test the washer immediately after resetting. Immediate re-tripping indicates serious electrical problems requiring professional assessment.
Test outlet voltage
Verify adequate power reaches the washer.
Use a voltage tester or multimeter checking outlet voltage. Washing machines require 120 volts.
Insert the tester into outlet slots reading displayed voltage. Readings below 110 volts indicate electrical supply problems.
Call an electrician if voltage measures inadequate. Low voltage damages appliances and indicates wiring problems.
Examine power cord
Damaged cords interrupt power delivery.
Inspect the entire power cord length. Look for cuts, cracks, exposed wires, or damaged insulation.
Check the plug prongs for damage or burning. Blackened prongs indicate overheating from poor connections.
Replace damaged power cords immediately. Never operate appliances with compromised electrical cords.
Step 2: Disable Control Lock
Control lock prevents all button operation appearing like washer failures.
Understanding control lock
This feature prevents accidental cycle changes or button presses.
When activated, control lock disables all buttons except the unlock sequence. The washer seems completely unresponsive.
A control lock indicator usually shows on the display. Look for a lock icon or “Control Locked” message.
Deactivating control lock
Specific button combinations disable this feature.
The standard unlock sequence involves pressing and holding “Control Lock” for 3 seconds. Some models use different buttons.
Common alternatives include holding “Delay Start” or “End of Cycle Signal” buttons.
Consult your owner’s manual for model-specific instructions. Unlock sequences vary between Centennial versions.
Listen for confirmation beeps. Most models audibly signal successful lock deactivation.
Testing after deactivation
Verify button responsiveness returns.
Press various buttons checking for normal responses. The display should update reflecting button presses.
Try starting a cycle. If the washer starts normally, control lock was your entire problem.
Step 3: Check Lid Switch Operation
Lid switches represent critical safety interlocks. Failures prevent all cycle operation.
Locating the lid switch
Find this component for visual inspection.
The lid switch typically mounts beneath the washer top or on the cabinet side. It sits near where the lid closes.
Access requires lifting the washer top or removing access panels. Specific access varies by model year.
Look for a small switch with an actuator arm. The lid closes against this arm activating the switch.
Visual inspection
Examine switch and actuator condition.
Check for broken plastic components. Damaged switch bodies or actuator arms prevent proper operation.
Verify the lid properly contacts the switch when closing. Misalignment prevents activation.
Look for debris or obstructions. Detergent buildup sometimes prevents complete switch engagement.
Clean around the switch mechanism removing any accumulation. Restore proper mechanical operation.
Electrical testing
Verify the switch’s electrical function.
Disconnect power completely before electrical testing. Never test live circuits without proper training.
Remove the wire connector from the lid switch. Use a multimeter set (View on Amazon) to continuity mode.
Test continuity across switch terminals. Manually press the actuator while testing.
Working switches show continuity changes when actuated. No change indicates switch failure.
Bypassing for testing
Temporarily bypass the switch confirming it causes no-start conditions.
Disconnect the switch wire connector. Use a jumper wire connecting the two harness terminals together.
This simulates a closed switch. The control board believes the lid is closed.
Attempt to start a cycle with the bypass in place. If the washer starts, the switch definitely failed.
Remove the bypass immediately after testing. Never operate the washer permanently bypassed—this defeats critical safety features.
Step 4: Verify Proper Cycle Selection
Incorrect cycle selections sometimes prevent start button function.
Cycle selection requirements
Certain cycles need specific conditions. Some specialty cycles won’t start without adequate load size. The machine detects insufficient mass refusing operation.
Temperature settings might conflict with cycle selections. Incompatible combinations prevent starting.
Testing cycle selection
Use the simplest possible settings.
Select “Normal” cycle. This basic setting has minimal restrictions.
Choose “Warm/Cold” water temperature. This universal setting works for all cycles.
Disable all special options. Remove extra rinse, extended wash, or other modifications.
Press start with these minimal settings. Success indicates your original selections contained incompatibilities.
Step 5: Examine Delayed Start Settings
Delayed start features prevent immediate cycle commencement causing confusion.
Understanding delayed start
This feature postpones cycle beginning by specified hours.
If accidentally activated, the washer displays a countdown. Cycles don’t start until the timer expires.
Many users activate this feature unknowingly through accidental button presses.
Checking for delayed start
Look for countdown timers on the display.
The display shows remaining hours before cycle commencement. This number counts down gradually.
A delayed start indicator light illuminates on some models. Check your control panel for this indicator.
Canceling delayed start
Remove unwanted delays to restore immediate operation.
Press “Delay Start” button repeatedly cycling through delay options. Return to zero or “Off.”
Some models require holding “Delay Start” for 3 seconds. This completely deactivates the feature.
Press “Cancel” twice clearing all settings. Reselect your desired cycle and press start immediately.
Step 6: Reset the Control System
Electronic glitches occasionally prevent normal operation requiring complete system resets.
Basic power reset
A basic power reset can help to clear temporary electronic faults.
Unplug the washer from the wall outlet. Wait 5-10 minutes for complete electrical discharge.
Press and hold any button for 30 seconds while unplugged. This drains residual capacitor charges.
Plug the washer back in. Allow 60 seconds for control board reinitialization.
Try starting a cycle. Many electronic glitches clear through power cycling.
Advanced reset procedure
This is to execute more thorough electronic clearing.
Unplug the washer. While unplugged, press and hold “Start” and “Pause/Cancel” simultaneously for 60 seconds.
Reconnect power. Immediately select a cycle and press start before touching other buttons.
This abbreviated startup sometimes bypasses corrupted settings preventing normal operation.
Maytag Centennial Washer Not Starting Cycle
When start buttons register but cycles don’t begin, specific component and setting issues deserve attention.
Start Button Mechanical Failure
Physical button damage prevents signal transmission to the control board.
Identifying button problems
Distinguish mechanical from electrical failures.
Press the start button observing its physical behavior. Working buttons provide tactile feedback—you feel distinct clicking.
Mushy or unresponsive buttons suggest mechanical damage. The button doesn’t engage internal contacts properly.
The control board might beep acknowledging the press. Sound without cycle start indicates the button works electrically.
Testing button continuity
Verify electrical contact closure.
Access the control panel removing screws securing the console. Separate the control panel from the cabinet.
Locate the start button on the control board. Identify the switch contacts behind the button.
Use a multimeter testing continuity across switch contacts. Press the button while testing.
Working buttons show continuity only when pressed. Continuous or absent continuity indicates failure.
Cleaning button contacts
Restore proper electrical contact.
Disassemble the button if design allows. Some buttons snap apart accessing internal contacts.
Clean contacts with electrical contact cleaner. Remove oxidation and contamination preventing proper closure.
Reassemble and test. Many button problems resolve through thorough cleaning.
Button replacement
Install new start button assemblies.
Order exact replacement buttons for your model. Control panel components are model-specific.
Remove the failed button carefully noting installation orientation. Photograph before removal documenting proper position.
Install the replacement button ensuring correct seating. Improper installation prevents proper operation.
Test thoroughly before reassembling completely. Verify proper button function before closing access panels.
Thermal Fuse Inspection
Thermal fuses protect against overheating by permanently interrupting power when temperature limits are exceeded.
Understanding thermal fuse function
These one-time safety devices prevent fires.
Thermal fuses mount near motors or heating elements. They monitor component temperatures continuously.
Excessive heat causes the fuse to blow. This permanently opens the circuit stopping all power flow.
Once blown, thermal fuses can’t reset. Replacement is mandatory for operation restoration.
Locating thermal fuses
Find this component in your Centennial.
Access the motor area or behind the control panel. Thermal fuse locations vary by model.
Look for a small cylindrical component with two wire connections. Thermal fuses resemble regular fuses visually.
Consult your model’s wiring diagram. These documents show exact thermal fuse locations.
Testing thermal fuse continuity
Determine if the fuse has blown.
Disconnect power completely. Unplug the washer before testing.
Remove one wire from the thermal fuse. This isolates the fuse for accurate testing.
Use a multimeter set to continuity mode. Touch probes to both fuse terminals.
Working fuses show continuity. Infinite resistance indicates a blown fuse requiring replacement.
Determining why fuses blow
Identify root causes preventing repeat failures.
Blown thermal fuses indicate overheating problems. The fuse performed its safety function correctly.
Inspect for blocked ventilation. Lint accumulation prevents cooling causing temperature buildup.
Check motor condition. Failing motor bearings create friction and excessive heat.
Verify proper load sizes. Consistent overloading strains motors generating excess heat.
Address underlying causes before replacing fuses. New fuses blow immediately if problems persist.
Control Board Signal Processing
The control board must recognize inputs and generate appropriate output commands.
Input recognition testing
Verify the board receives button signals.
Some models include diagnostic modes showing received inputs. Enter diagnostic mode checking button recognition.
Press each control panel button observing diagnostic feedback. The display should indicate successful input reception.
Buttons that don’t register indicate control panel problems. Buttons registering without cycle start suggest board processing failures.
Output command verification
Confirm the board sends operational commands.
Diagnostic modes often allow manual component activation. Test whether the board can energize motors and valves.
Successful component activation proves board output circuits function. The problem lies in start sequence logic.
Failed component tests indicate output circuit problems. These require board repair or replacement.
Relay and component testing
Check electromechanical output devices.
Control boards use relays switching high-current circuits. These mechanical switches fail over time.
Listen for relay clicking during start attempts. Audible clicks indicate relay operation.
Silent relays suggest failure. Replace failed relays if board design allows component-level service.
Wire Connection Inspection
Vibration and time loosen electrical connections creating intermittent or complete failures.
Systematic connection checking
Examine all accessible wire connections.
Access internal components removing necessary panels. Identify all wire harness connections.
Tug gently on each connector. Properly seated connections resist moderate pulling force.
Reseat any loose connections firmly. Push connectors together until they click or seat completely.
Look for corroded terminals. Green or white deposits indicate oxidation increasing resistance.
Clean corroded connections using electrical contact cleaner. Restore proper metal-to-metal contact.
Harness continuity testing
Verify wires haven’t broken internally.
Disconnect both ends of suspect wire harnesses. Isolate harnesses for accurate testing.
Test continuity through each wire individually. Touch multimeter probes to corresponding terminals at both ends.
Continuous resistance indicates intact wires. Infinite resistance reveals broken internal conductors.
Replace damaged harnesses restoring proper electrical paths. Don’t attempt wire splicing on appliance harnesses.
Control Panel Membrane Switch Failure
Modern control panels use membrane switches beneath decorative overlays.
Understanding membrane switches
These switches use flexible circuits.
Pressing a button compresses a membrane circuit against contacts. This creates electrical closure.
Repeated pressing wears membrane material. The circuit fails to close properly preventing signal generation.
Identifying membrane failures
Distinguish from control board problems.
Multiple adjacent buttons failing simultaneously suggests membrane problems. Board failures typically affect random buttons.
Physical overlay damage indicates likely membrane issues. Tears or deformation compromise electrical contact.
Moisture intrusion causes membrane failures. Water damage attacks conductive traces and contacts.
Membrane switch replacement
Install new control panel overlays.
Order complete control panel assemblies. Membrane switches aren’t typically sold separately.
Remove the old control panel completely. Transfer any reusable components to the new panel.
Install the new panel ensuring proper alignment. Mispositioned panels prevent correct button operation.
Test all buttons before final reassembly. Verify complete functionality preventing reassembly errors.
Advanced Electrical Troubleshooting
Complex electrical problems require methodical testing approaches identifying specific failures.
Voltage Drop Testing
Inadequate voltage under load creates operational problems invisible to static testing.
Understanding voltage drop
Power supply voltage decreases under electrical load.
Outlets might show correct voltage when empty. Adding washer load drops voltage below operational requirements.
Insufficient wire gauge or poor connections cause voltage drop. Resistance increases when current flows.
Measuring loaded voltage
Test voltage during operation attempts.
Access internal power connections. Identify where main power enters the control board.
Use a multimeter measuring voltage. Attempt to start a cycle while monitoring voltage.
Voltage should remain above 110 volts during start attempts. Significant drops indicate supply problems.
External electrical work addresses supply issues. Electricians upgrade circuits or correct wiring problems.
Ground Fault Detection
Ground faults trip circuit protection preventing washer operation.
Identifying ground faults
Distinguish from other electrical problems.
Circuit breakers trip immediately when power connects. This instant tripping suggests ground faults.
GFCI outlets trip preventing operation. Ground fault indicators show the problem type.
Testing for ground faults
Isolate problematic circuits.
Disconnect internal components systematically. Remove one connection at a time testing circuit reset.
Successful reset after component disconnection identifies the grounded circuit. That component or its wiring requires replacement.
Persistent tripping with all components disconnected suggests damaged main wiring. Professional electrical service becomes necessary.
Component Load Testing
Some components draw excessive current indicating internal failures.
Current draw measurement
Verify components operate within specifications.
Use a clamp ammeter measuring current to specific components. Compare readings to service manual values.
Excessive current indicates component problems. Motors or valves drawing too much current soon fail completely.
Insulation resistance testing
Check for electrical leakage.
Use a megohmmeter testing component insulation. These specialized meters detect insulation breakdown.
Low insulation resistance indicates deteriorating components. These create shock hazards and operational problems.
Professional assessment becomes advisable for electrical safety testing. Improper testing creates hazards.
Also Read: Maytag Centennial Washer Error Codes Meaning
When Professional Service Becomes Necessary
Certain no-start scenarios warrant professional technician intervention.
Complex Control Board Problems
Control boards containing microprocessors require specialized diagnostic approaches.
Intermittent operation suggesting random electronic failures exceeds basic troubleshooting. Professionals use oscilloscopes and logic analyzers.
Multiple simultaneous system failures indicate control board problems. Replacing boards without verification wastes money.
Professional diagnosis costs $80-150 typically. This investment prevents unnecessary part replacement.
Safety-Related Electrical Issues
Electrical problems creating shock or fire risks require professional expertise.
Frequent breaker tripping indicates serious electrical problems. Don’t repeatedly reset breakers without identifying causes.
Burning smells or visible component damage suggest dangerous conditions. Unplug immediately and seek professional help.
Water leakage onto electrical components creates immediate hazards. Don’t operate washers with water-damaged electrical systems.
Warranty Considerations
Manufacturer warranties mandate authorized service for covered repairs.
Warranty status checking reveals coverage eligibility. Register new appliances establishing warranty dates.
DIY repairs void remaining warranty coverage. Document warranty terms before attempting repairs.
Authorized service provides warranty-compliant repairs. Protect your investment through proper service channels.
Economic Decision Points
Compare repair costs to replacement values making informed decisions.
Control board replacement costs $200-400 typically. Add professional installation reaching $400-600 total.
Consider machine age and overall condition. Expensive repairs on 10+ year old washers rarely make sense.
New decent washers (View on Amazon) cost $600-900. Repairs exceeding 50% replacement cost warrant replacement consideration.
Multiple recent repairs suggest cascading failures. Machines requiring frequent attention approach end-of-life.
Preventive Measures
Regular maintenance and proper operation prevent many no-start problems.
Electrical System Maintenance
Protect electrical components through environmental control.
Keep the laundry room dry and well-ventilated. Moisture attacks electrical connections and components.
Avoid overloading electrical circuits. Washers should have dedicated 15-20 amp circuits.
Inspect power cords annually. Replace damaged cords before they fail completely.
Tighten outlet connections if plugs fit loosely. Poor connections create arcing and resistance.
Proper Operating Practices
User habits significantly affect washer longevity.
Close lids gently avoiding hard impacts. Repeated slamming damages lid switches and strike plates.
Clean control panels regularly. Use damp cloths avoiding harsh chemicals that damage membranes.
Don’t force stuck buttons or controls. Excessive pressure breaks mechanical components.
Follow manufacturer loading guidelines. Consistent overloading stresses all systems accelerating wear.
Regular Inspection Routines
Catch developing problems before complete failures occur.
Test control panel button response monthly. Identify deteriorating buttons before complete failure.
Listen for unusual sounds during operation. New sounds indicate developing mechanical problems.
Observe cycle start behavior. Increasing delay before start indicates marginal components.
Address small problems immediately. Minor issues become major failures when ignored.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my Maytag Centennial have power but won’t start when I press the button?
This indicates the control board receives power but something prevents cycle initiation. Check for activated control lock, verify the lid closes completely engaging switches, ensure no delayed start setting exists, and confirm proper cycle selection. These account for 70% of power-with-no-start situations.
How do I know if my start button is broken?
Press the button observing for tactile feedback—you should feel distinct clicking. Listen for beeps indicating button recognition. If the button feels mushy or produces no response, mechanical failure is likely. Test other buttons; if all fail, the control panel or board has problems.
Can a tripped breaker cause my washer to appear completely dead?
Yes, tripped circuit breakers cut all power creating totally unresponsive washers. Check your electrical panel for breakers in the middle position between on and off. Reset by switching fully off then back on. Immediate re-tripping indicates serious electrical problems requiring professional assessment.
Will resetting my Maytag Centennial fix the no-start problem?
Electronic resets clear temporary glitches but won’t fix actual component failures. Try unplugging for 10 minutes first since it costs nothing and takes minimal time. If problems persist after reset, actual repairs become necessary. Resets fix 15-20% of no-start complaints.
Why does my washer start sometimes but not other times?
Intermittent failures indicate marginal component condition or loose connections. Vibration shifts loose connections temporarily restoring function. Thermal issues cause components to fail when hot but work when cool. Document when failures occur identifying environmental patterns revealing causes.
How much does it cost to fix a Maytag Centennial that won’t start?
Repair costs range from $0 for user error corrections to $600 for control board replacement. Lid switch repairs run $25-60 DIY or $120-180 professionally. Start button replacement costs $30-80 DIY or $150-250 installed. Most no-start repairs fall in the $50-200 range excluding major control board failures.
Is my Maytag Centennial worth fixing if it won’t start?
Consider machine age, repair cost, and overall condition. Simple fixes under $100 justify repair regardless of age. Expensive repairs over $300 on machines exceeding 8 years warrant replacement consideration. Multiple recent repairs suggest approaching end-of-life making replacement more economical than continued repairs.
Also Read:
- Maytag Centennial Washer Stuck on Sensing Mode (Fixed!)
- Maytag Washer Drains But Won’t Spin (Fixed!)
Getting Your Centennial Started Again
A Maytag Centennial refusing to start creates immediate laundry day disruption. The path from non-functioning to operational follows clear diagnostic sequences.
Start with the simplest possibilities. User errors cause nearly half of all no-start complaints. Control lock, delayed start, and incorrect settings resolve in seconds.
Verify electrical supply thoroughly. Tripped breakers and loose connections account for another major problem category.
Progress systematically to component testing. Lid switches fail predictably causing most genuine mechanical no-start problems.
Understand the difference between power supply and control issues. Completely dead washers indicate external electrical problems. Illuminated panels that don’t respond suggest internal component failures.
Electronic resets clear many mysterious problems. Spend five minutes resetting before assuming expensive repairs.
Know when professional help becomes appropriate. Complex electrical diagnostics and control board problems exceed typical DIY capabilities.
Consider economic factors realistically. Sometimes replacement provides better value than expensive repairs on aging machines.
Document your troubleshooting process. Records prevent duplicate efforts and help professionals if their intervention becomes necessary.
Your Maytag Centennial wants to wash clothes—it’s engineered for this purpose. Something simply prevents that first critical step from occurring. Systematic diagnosis reveals the obstacle enabling targeted correction restoring normal operation.
Most no-start problems resolve without expensive repairs or professional service. Patient troubleshooting typically identifies simple fixes returning your washer to ready status quickly.