LG Washer Error Codes: Complete Guide to Fix Problems

You’re halfway through a load of laundry when your LG washing machine suddenly stops, displays a cryptic error code, and refuses to continue. Is OE something you can fix in five minutes, or does it mean calling a repair technician? Does UE require emptying the entire washer, or can you just press a button? And what on earth is IE telling you about your water supply?

LG washing machines use sophisticated diagnostic systems that identify specific failures with remarkable precision. Instead of simply stopping and leaving you to guess what went wrong, these error codes pinpoint exactly which component, system, or condition is preventing normal operation.

An OE code tells you drainage is blocked. IE indicates water isn’t entering. UE means the load is unbalanced. This specificity transforms troubleshooting from guesswork into systematic problem-solving, often allowing you to resolve issues yourself without the expense and inconvenience of service calls.

This comprehensive guide decodes every LG washer error code you’re likely to encounter in 2026, explaining what each means in practical terms, providing detailed step-by-step troubleshooting instructions, and helping you determine when issues are simple DIY fixes versus situations requiring professional expertise.

You’ll learn why OE is the most common LG washer error and how to clear it in minutes, discover the difference between UB and UE and why one resolves itself while the other needs your help, and understand which LG washer symbols and codes indicate minor inconveniences versus serious component failures.

Understanding LG Washer Error Code System

Before troubleshooting specific errors, understanding how LG structures its diagnostic codes helps you interpret what any error is communicating about your washer’s condition.

How LG Structures Washer Error Codes

LG employs an alphanumeric format that systematically identifies both the affected system and the specific nature of the failure. This isn’t arbitrary lettering. The codes follow logical patterns designed to make diagnosis efficient.

The letter component indicates which major system is experiencing problems. Codes containing “E” often relate to water (inlet or drainage). Those with “U” typically indicate unbalanced loads or drum issues. “d” codes point to door or lid problems. “t” signals temperature-related failures. This categorization lets you immediately understand the general problem area.

Numbers provide specific failure detail within that system. For example, all drainage errors share the “E” designation, but OE specifically means outflow/drainage blockage while IE indicates inflow/inlet problems. The number or second letter distinguishes between different failure modes affecting the same general system.

Evolution from older models to 2026 technology shows increasing sophistication. Older LG washers used simpler error codes with less specificity. Modern models with AI DD, LoopSense, and advanced control systems generate more detailed codes that identify component-level failures rather than just system-level problems. A 2015 model might show generic “LE” for motor errors, while a 2026 model distinguishes between motor winding failure, hall sensor problems, and drive system issues with different variants.

How Errors Display Across Different Models

Front-load digital displays show error codes as clear text directly on the control panel screen. You’ll see “OE” or “UE” spelled out in easy-to-read characters with no interpretation needed. Many premium models also display brief explanatory text like “Check Drain Pump Filter” alongside the code.

Top-load LED indicator patterns on models without full digital displays communicate errors through blinking light sequences. Specific patterns of cycle indicator lights blinking correspond to different error codes. You count the blinks and pauses, then match the pattern to your manual’s error code chart to decode the message.

Touch panel versus traditional control differences affect error presentation. Touch panels can display more detailed information, sometimes showing troubleshooting steps right on the screen. Traditional button-and-dial controls typically show just the error code, requiring you to consult documentation for meaning.

Finding error codes on models without displays requires attention to the blinking pattern. Watch carefully, count the number of blinks in each sequence, note the pause length between sequences, and record the complete pattern. Your washer’s manual translates these patterns into specific error codes.

Error Code Categories at a Glance

Understanding the major categories helps you immediately assess what type of problem you’re facing.

Water supply errors (IE, 4E, 1E) indicate issues with water entering the washer. These range from simple closed valves to failed inlet valves requiring replacement.

Drainage errors (OE, 5E, SE, nD) mean water can’t exit the washer properly. These are the most common LG washer errors and usually involve clogged filters or blocked drain systems.

Door and lid errors (dE, dE1, dE2, LE2) signal that safety interlocks can’t verify proper door closure. The washer won’t run with the door open for safety reasons.

Balance and load errors (UE, UB, dC) relate to uneven load distribution in the drum. The washer can’t safely spin when loads are severely unbalanced.

Motor and drive errors (LE, 3E, CE) indicate problems with the motor system that rotates the drum. These range from simple overloading to serious motor failures.

Temperature and sensor errors (tE variants, PE) point to heating system failures or sensor malfunctions affecting water temperature or level detection.

Control and communication errors (EE, AE, FO) involve the electronic control systems that operate the washer. These typically require professional service.

Smart Diagnosis for Enhanced Troubleshooting

How Smart Diagnosis works with error codes extends far beyond the basic code displayed on your washer. When you run Smart Diagnosis through the LG ThinQ app, your washer transmits comprehensive diagnostic data that provides context the simple error code can’t convey.

ThinQ app diagnostic capabilities let you access detailed troubleshooting that analyzes patterns, identifies contributing factors, suggests specific solutions, and determines whether repairs are DIY-appropriate or require professional service.

Tone-based error analysis explained: Your washer plays diagnostic tones encoding information about component status, sensor readings, cycle history, error frequency, and operating conditions. The app decodes these tones using pattern recognition algorithms that interpret the audio data into actionable diagnostic information.

Information beyond basic error codes includes when the error first appeared, how many cycles have run since, whether related anomalies exist, what operating conditions were present during failure, and whether the issue is deteriorating or stable. This context transforms a simple “OE” from just “drain error” into “drain pump filter 85% clogged, developed gradually over 3 weeks, likely small items plus lint, filter cleaning should resolve.”

Critical LG Washer Water Supply Error Codes

Water supply errors prevent your washer from filling properly, stopping cycles before they can even begin washing clothes. Understanding these codes helps you quickly restore water flow.

IE Error Code: Water Inlet Error

What IE means is that your LG washer has attempted to fill with water but hasn’t detected adequate water level within the expected timeframe. The control board expects water level to reach a certain point within roughly 8-10 minutes. When that doesn’t happen, IE triggers.

Common IE Causes

Water supply valves closed is the simplest and most common cause. LG washers require both hot and cold water connections. Even if you’re running a cold-only cycle, both valves must be open because the washer controls mixing internally. A closed valve anywhere in the supply prevents filling.

Kinked or damaged inlet hoses restrict water flow to a trickle that can’t fill the washer fast enough. Hoses can kink when washers get pushed too close to walls, crushed behind the machine, or bent severely at connection points. Damage from age, freezing, or physical stress creates internal restrictions or leaks.

Clogged inlet filter screens are tiny mesh screens inside the water inlet valve ports where hoses connect to the washer. These catch sediment, mineral deposits, and debris from your home’s water supply. Over time, these screens can clog completely, preventing water from entering even when supply valves are wide open and water pressure is adequate.

Low water pressure below the 20 PSI minimum LG requires prevents adequate fill. If your home’s water pressure is marginal (weak flow from faucets, showers with poor pressure), the washer might not receive enough flow to fill properly.

Failed water inlet valve means the electronically-controlled valve that opens to allow water into the washer has malfunctioned. The valve contains solenoids that open water passages when energized. These can fail mechanically (stuck closed) or electrically (no power reaching solenoids).

Step-by-Step IE Troubleshooting

Step 1: Check hot and cold water valves fully open

Behind or beside your washer, locate the water supply valves (typically two knobs or levers on the wall). Turn both counterclockwise until they stop to ensure they’re completely open. Even partially-closed valves significantly reduce flow.

Don’t assume they’re open because you haven’t touched them recently. Valves can be accidentally bumped, turned by children or pets, or closed by someone doing maintenance without your knowledge.

Step 2: Inspect inlet hoses for kinks

Pull the washer away from the wall enough to see the entire hose length. Look for any crushing, severe bending, or kinking that restricts the hose opening. Even hoses that appear fine might have internal kinks not visible externally.

If you find kinks, straighten them carefully. Consider replacing severely kinked hoses as they may have developed internal damage. Use reinforced stainless steel braided hoses for durability and kink resistance.

Step 3: Clean inlet filter screens

Turn off water supply valves. Disconnect the inlet hoses from the back of the washer (not from the wall valves). Inside each inlet port on the washer, you’ll see a small mesh screen.

Use needle-nose pliers to carefully pull out each screen. Don’t damage the mesh. Rinse under running water to remove sediment and mineral deposits. For stubborn deposits, soak screens in white vinegar for 30 minutes, then rinse.

Reinstall screens firmly into the inlet ports. Reconnect hoses and tighten securely. Turn water supply back on and check for leaks.

Step 4: Test water pressure at other fixtures

Turn on a nearby faucet fully and observe flow strength. Strong, forceful flow indicates adequate pressure. Weak, dribbling flow suggests low pressure affecting your entire home.

If pressure is weak everywhere, contact your water utility or a plumber to investigate. If just the washer has issues but other fixtures work fine, the problem is isolated to the washer’s inlet system.

Step 5: Verify inlet valve function

With water supply on and washer plugged in, start a cycle and listen carefully at the inlet valve location (back of washer where hoses connect). You should hear clicking as solenoids activate and rushing water sounds as water enters.

No clicking suggests electrical problems preventing valve operation. Clicking but no water flow indicates mechanical valve failure. Both scenarios typically require inlet valve replacement.

When IE Requires Service

Inlet valve electrical failure happens when the solenoids receive no power from the control board or when solenoid coils burn out internally. Testing requires a multimeter (View on Amazon) to check for power at the valve and measure solenoid resistance. Most homeowners find professional diagnosis more practical.

Internal valve clogging beyond cleaning occurs when mineral deposits or debris lodge inside the valve body rather than just the screens. Disassembly and cleaning are possible but complicated. Replacement is usually more cost-effective.

Water pressure issues requiring plumbing work exceed washer repair scope. If your home’s water pressure is inadequate, you need a plumber to investigate. Issues might include pressure-reducing valve set too low, partially-closed main shutoff valve, undersized supply lines, or municipal supply problems.

IE fix cost range: DIY solutions (cleaning screens, opening valves, fixing hoses) cost nothing. Inlet valve replacement professionally runs $100-200 including parts and labor. The water inlet valve itself costs $40-80 (View on Amazon), with the remainder being labor.

4E Error Code: Water Supply Problem

4E versus IE differences are minimal to nonexistent on most LG models. Different model years and series use different code designations for the same basic water inlet error. Functionally, 4E and IE are interchangeable on LG washers.

4E Specific Scenarios

Hot water-only 4E appears when the hot water supply specifically has issues. You might see this if someone closed just the hot valve, if the hot water inlet filter is clogged, or if your home’s hot water heater isn’t producing hot water.

Cold water-only 4E indicates the cold supply has problems while hot works fine. This is less common since most cycles use primarily cold water, but it can happen.

Complete supply failure shows 4E when neither hot nor cold water enters. This suggests both valves closed, both inlet screens clogged, main water shutoff closed, or complete inlet valve failure.

1E/1C Error Code: Water Level Sensor Error

What 1E indicates is that the pressure sensor monitoring water level isn’t functioning correctly. This sensor tells the control board how much water is in the tub. When it fails, the washer can’t determine if it’s filled properly, leading to overfilling, underfilling, or failure to start cycles.

How Water Level Sensing Works

The air pressure tube system is responsible for measuring water level without putting electronic sensors directly in water. A small air tube runs from the bottom of the tub to a pressure switch/sensor. As water fills the tub, it compresses air in this tube.

Pressure switch detects air pressure increase. The switch is calibrated so specific pressure levels correspond to specific water levels (low, medium, high). The switch sends electrical signals to the control board indicating current water level.

Control board uses these signals to control filling, determine when enough water is present for washing, and decide when to drain. Accurate level sensing is critical for proper operation.

Fixing 1E Errors

Check pressure tube for blockages by locating the small rubber or plastic tube connecting the tub to the pressure switch (consult your manual for location). Disconnect it carefully and blow through to verify it’s clear. Blockages from lint, soap residue, or debris prevent accurate pressure transmission.

Verify that tube connections secure at both ends. Loose connections cause pressure leaks that result in inaccurate readings. Push connections firmly onto their fittings.

Inspect for leaks in pressure system by checking the tube for cracks, holes, or deterioration. Even small leaks prevent accurate pressure sensing. Replace damaged tubes with manufacturer-specified parts.

Sensor replacement becomes necessary when the pressure switch itself fails electronically. These switches eventually wear out. Replacement requires accessing internal washer components and connecting the new switch properly. Professional service typically handles this, with costs ranging $100-250 including parts and labor.

LG Washer Drainage Error Codes

Drainage errors are far and away the most frequent problems LG washer owners encounter. Understanding how to resolve these saves countless service calls.

OE Error Code: Drain Error

What OE means is that your LG washer has tried to drain water but hasn’t succeeded within the expected timeframe. The control board monitors how long drainage takes. When water remains in the tub after several minutes of drain pump operation, OE appears to alert you that something is blocking drainage.

Why OE Is So Common

Drain pump filter catches debris by design. This filter (located behind a small access panel at the front bottom of most front-load washers) traps lint, coins, bobby pins, buttons, small socks, and other items before they reach the pump. This protection prevents pump damage but means the filter gradually fills with debris.

Small items clog pump when they bypass the filter or enter through other paths. Underwires from bras, pens, small toys, and similar objects can lodge in the pump impeller, preventing it from spinning and moving water.

Hoses develop blockages over time as lint accumulates in internal drain hoses. These hoses can also kink if the washer shifts position or develop clogs at connection points where lint prefers to accumulate.

If you poll 100 LG washer owners about errors they’ve encountered, probably 70-80 will report having dealt with OE at some point. The ubiquity of this error makes understanding its resolution particularly valuable.

Comprehensive OE Troubleshooting

Step 1: Access drain pump filter

Locate the small access panel at the front bottom of your washer, typically on the lower right or lower left side. On front-load models, this is usually a rectangular panel that pulls open or pops off. Top-load models have different access methods; consult your manual.

Place old towels on the floor in front of the washer. Water will drain out when you open the filter, sometimes more than a gallon depending on when the error occurred.

Have a shallow pan or bowl ready to catch water as you slowly turn the filter cap counterclockwise.

Step 2: Clean pump filter thoroughly

Turn the filter cap slowly counterclockwise. Water will begin draining immediately. Let it drain into your pan or towels. Once flow stops, remove the cap completely.

Pull out the filter element and remove all debris. You’ll typically find lint, hair, coins, small items that escaped pockets, and accumulated gunk. Clean everything thoroughly.

Behind the filter, you can usually see the pump impeller (the spinning component that moves water). Reach in carefully and spin it with your finger to verify it rotates freely. Remove any items or debris blocking the impeller.

Rinse the filter under running water. Check for damage or cracks that might let debris through. Reinstall by inserting the filter and turning clockwise until snug. Replace the access panel.

Step 3: Inspect drain hose

Pull the washer away from the wall to access the rear panel. Locate the drain hose (typically a large corrugated hose running from the washer to a standpipe or sink connection).

Check for kinks or crushing. Even slight compression can severely restrict drainage. Straighten any kinks carefully.

Verify the hose is installed at proper height. The drain hose should exit the washer, rise to a height of 39-96 inches above the floor, then descend into the standpipe or sink. Too low allows siphoning. Too high prevents gravity drainage.

Disconnect the hose and inspect inside for clogs. Shine a flashlight through to check for blockages. Use a plumber’s snake or long brush to clear any obstructions.

Step 4: Check drain pump operation

Run a drain or spin cycle while listening to the pump area (usually left front of the washer). You should hear the pump motor running with a steady hum or buzz.

No sound suggests electrical problems or a completely seized pump. Grinding or rattling sounds indicate mechanical damage or debris inside the pump.

If the pump runs but doesn’t move water, the impeller might be broken or the pump has lost prime and can’t generate flow.

Step 5: Verify drain line/standpipe

Sometimes OE isn’t the washer’s fault at all. The household drain line might be clogged. Pour a bucket of water directly into your standpipe or sink where the washer drains. If this backs up or drains very slowly, the problem is your plumbing, not the washer.

Check standpipe height. It should be 39-96 inches tall. Too short allows siphoning that confuses the washer. Too tall prevents drainage against gravity.

Ensure the drain hose isn’t inserted too far into the standpipe. It should only go in 6-8 inches. Deeper insertion can create an airlock preventing drainage.

OE Prevention Strategies

Empty pockets before washing. Coins, tissues, receipts, and small items are the most common types of debris found in drain filters. A quick pocket check before loading prevents most filter clogs.

Use mesh laundry bags (View on Amazon) for small items like baby socks, underwear, delicates, and anything small enough to escape through drum perforations. These bags contain small items, preventing them from reaching the filter or pump.

Monthly filter cleaning schedule prevents clogs from developing. Even if OE hasn’t appeared, clean the filter monthly as routine maintenance. This removes accumulating lint and debris before it reaches clog levels.

Avoid washing items that shed heavily like pet beds covered in hair, extremely worn towels shedding fibers, or items with loose strings and threads. These create excessive lint that accelerates filter clogging.

When OE Needs Professional Help

Pump motor failed electrically means the motor windings have burned out or the motor has seized mechanically. Replacement requires accessing internal washer components, disconnecting electrical connections, and installing a new pump assembly.

Internal hose disconnected inside the washer cabinet allows water to drain into the base rather than out the drain hose. This requires disassembly to locate and reconnect the hose properly.

Control board drain circuit issues prevent the control board from sending power to the pump even though the pump is fine. Diagnosing this requires electrical testing and potentially control board replacement.

OE repair costs: DIY filter cleaning costs nothing. Drain pump replacement professionally typically runs $150-250 including a new pump ($80-120) and labor. Internal hose repairs cost $100-200. Control board issues can reach $300-500.

5E/SE Error Code: Drain Error Variant

5E versus OE differences are minimal to nonexistent. LG uses different code designations across different model years and series. Some models display “5E,” others show “SE,” and many use “OE” for identical drainage problems.

The troubleshooting approach is identical regardless of which variant your model displays. They all indicate water isn’t draining properly and require the same diagnostic and repair steps.

nD Error Code: No Drain

nD specific is more emphatic than standard OE. While OE indicates slow or incomplete drainage, nD specifically signals that no drainage is occurring whatsoever. Water remains completely in the tub with zero reduction in level.

This distinction suggests complete blockage rather than partial restriction. The pump might not be running at all (electrical failure), might be completely jammed (foreign object), or the drain path might be entirely blocked (kinked hose, closed standpipe valve).

Approach nD with the assumption that you’re dealing with a complete failure rather than a partial clog. Check electrical connections to the pump, verify nothing has completely jammed the impeller, and ensure drain paths aren’t completely obstructed.

LG Washer Balance and Load Error Codes

Unbalanced loads are the second most common issue LG washer owners face. Understanding how the washer detects and responds to imbalance helps you prevent these errors.

UE Error Code: Unbalanced Load

What UE means is that your LG washer has attempted to spin the drum at high speed but detected that the load is so unevenly distributed that spinning would cause excessive vibration, potentially damaging the washer or causing it to walk across the floor. The control board monitors vibration and rotation resistance. When imbalance exceeds safe parameters, it stops the spin cycle and displays UE.

How LG Detects Imbalance

Accelerometer sensors in modern LG washers measure vibration in multiple axes. These sensors detect how much the washer shakes during spin attempts. Excessive vibration indicates unbalanced loads.

Vibration monitoring happens continuously during spin cycles. The control board analyzes vibration patterns. Normal, even loads create minimal, steady vibration. Unbalanced loads produce erratic, severe vibration that the sensors clearly differentiate from normal operation.

Rotation resistance measurement tracks how much current the motor draws to spin the drum. Unbalanced loads create varying resistance as heavy sections of the load swing around the drum. The motor works harder during part of each rotation, creating detectable current fluctuations.

Multiple rebalance attempts before UE mean the washer doesn’t give up immediately. When imbalance is detected, the washer stops spinning, rotates the drum slowly in alternating directions trying to redistribute clothes, then attempts to spin again. After 3-5 failed rebalance attempts, UE appears.

Common UE Causes

Single heavy item like a bathrobe, comforter, or large blanket creates severe imbalance. These items absorb significant water, becoming very heavy. When bunched on one side of the drum, they create an enormous imbalance the washer can’t correct.

All clothes bunched on one side during the wash cycle tumble. Sometimes they form a clump that doesn’t redistribute during spin attempts. This is especially common with sheets and large items that can wrap around themselves, as well as with smaller items.

Mixing very heavy and very light items creates situations where heavy items collect together while light items can’t provide counterbalance. Washing one pair of jeans with several lightweight t-shirts, for example, makes balancing difficult.

Overloading beyond capacity prevents proper load distribution. When the drum is packed completely full, there’s no room for clothes to shift and redistribute during rebalancing attempts. The mass is too large and rigid to move.

Washer not level on floor contributes to UE errors. If the washer sits tilted, loads naturally settle toward the lower side, creating inherent imbalance. A washer that’s significantly out of level will struggle with balance even on properly loaded cycles.

Fixing UE Errors Immediately

Step 1: Open washer door and assess the load. You’ll usually see immediately where the problem lies. Clothes bunched on one side, a single heavy item, or obvious overload will be apparent.

Step 2: Manually redistribute clothes evenly by pulling apart clumps and spreading items around the drum circumference. Distribute heavy items evenly, intersperse them with lighter items, and ensure nothing is wrapped around other items.

Step 3: Remove items if overloaded to bring the load down to about 3/4 drum capacity maximum. You should be able to fit your hand between the top of the clothes and the top of the drum. If clothes pack tightly to the drum top, remove some.

Step 4: Add items if the load is too small in specific situations. Sometimes a load is too small to balance, particularly just one or two very heavy items. Adding a few towels provides mass that helps balance. However, don’t add too much or you create overload.

Step 5: Verify washer level with bubble level by placing a carpenter’s bubble level on top of the washer, front-to-back and side-to-side. Adjust leveling feet (screw legs at each corner) until the bubble centers. A level washer balances loads much more effectively.

Step 6: Restart cycle by pressing Start or selecting Spin Only to attempt the spin cycle again. With properly distributed loads, the cycle should complete normally.

UB vs. UE Distinction

UB equals attempting to rebalance (note the lowercase “b”). When you see UB displayed, the washer is actively working to correct imbalance. It’s rotating the drum slowly in different directions, pausing, then trying different redistribution patterns.

UE equals rebalancing failed (note the uppercase “E”). This appears after multiple UB attempts didn’t resolve the imbalance. UE means the washer has given up and needs your intervention.

UB is process, UE is error result. If you see UB, be patient and let the washer work. It might successfully rebalance and continue without your help. Only when UB progresses to UE do you need to open the washer and manually intervene.

Preventing UE Errors

Mix large and small items in each load to create loads that balance naturally. Don’t wash all your towels together or all your jeans together. Mix sizes and weights for better distribution.

Don’t wash single heavy items alone without counterbalance. If washing a bathrobe, add several towels. If washing a comforter, add other bulky items to provide distributed weight.

Keep loads to 3/4 drum capacity maximum to leave room for redistribution. Underloading slightly is better than overloading when it comes to preventing UE.

Use high-efficiency detergent (View on Amazon) in correct amounts. Excessive regular detergent creates suds that interfere with load movement during rebalancing. Too many suds keep clothes from sliding around the drum freely.

Ensure washer sits level as a permanent prevention measure. Check level when installing the washer and re-check every few months as washers can shift slightly with vibration over time.

When UE Indicates Mechanical Problems

Suspension springs broken or detached prevent the drum from moving freely during rebalancing attempts. The drum might sit tilted or not bounce properly when you push down on it with the door open.

Shock absorbers failure allows excessive drum movement during spinning. You’ll notice the washer vibrating more than normal even on balanced loads. Failed shocks can’t dampen vibration properly.

Damaged legs or stripped threads prevent proper leveling. If you can’t achieve the level despite adjusting the legs, the leg mechanisms might be damaged.

Drum support issues like broken spider arms or failed drum bearings create mechanical resistance that prevents smooth rotation. These serious problems require professional diagnosis and repair.

dC Error Code: Door Close/Unbalance

dC on top-loaders means combined door closure verification with unbalance detection. The error indicates the washer can’t spin because either the lid isn’t properly closed or the load is unbalanced. Top-load washers use this combined code where front-loaders would show separate dE and UE codes.

dC Troubleshooting

Same load redistribution as UE applies since the primary cause is usually unbalanced loads rather than actual lid closure problems. Open the lid, redistribute clothes evenly around the agitator or impeller, ensure nothing is wrapped around the agitator shaft, and restart.

Check lid closes properly by verifying the lid sits flush when closed and the latch engages with a click. Sometimes items get caught under the lid edge preventing full closure.

Verify no items is preventing lid closure by checking for clothes hanging over the tub edge or items blocking the lid latch mechanism. Remove any obstructions and ensure the lid can close completely.

LG Washer Motor and Mechanical Error Codes

Motor and drive system errors prevent the drum from rotating properly, ranging from simple overloading to serious component failures.

LE Error Code: Motor/Drive Error

What LE indicates is that the motor control system has detected a problem operating the drive motor. This could be mechanical resistance preventing rotation, electrical issues affecting motor operation, or control system failures preventing proper motor activation.

LE Causes – Mechanical

Severely overloaded drum creates resistance the motor can’t overcome. When you pack the washer beyond capacity, the sheer weight and volume of wet clothes makes rotation extremely difficult. The motor strains, draws excessive current, and the control board triggers LE to protect the motor from damage.

Items jammed in drum mechanism between the inner drum and outer tub can completely lock the drum. Underwires from bras, pens, coins, or small toys that fall through drum perforations lodge in the narrow space between rotating drum and stationary tub, creating mechanical interference.

Foreign objects blocking rotation include items that fall into the pump or drain system, items wedged in the door seal assembly, or objects that somehow reach the motor or drive system. Any solid obstruction in the rotation path can trigger LE.

Drive belt issues on older models (LG’s newer Direct Drive technology eliminates belts) include broken, stretched, or slipped belts. If the belt that connects motor to drum breaks or jumps off its pulleys, the motor spins freely but the drum doesn’t move. The control system detects this mismatch and shows LE.

Bearing seizure in drum support bearings or motor bearings creates enormous resistance. Bearings allow the drum to rotate smoothly on its shaft. When bearings fail and seize, rotation becomes impossible or requires far more torque than normal.

LE Causes – Electrical

Motor winding failure means the electromagnetic coils inside the motor have shorted or opened. These windings create the magnetic fields that make the motor rotate. Shorted windings draw excessive current. Open windings prevent motor operation entirely.

Hall sensor malfunction affects washers with Direct Drive motors. The hall sensor detects rotor position and speed, feeding this data to the control board for precise motor control. Failed hall sensors prevent proper motor operation.

Motor control board issues involve the dedicated circuit board that controls motor operation. This specialized board converts control signals into precise motor activation. Its failure prevents motor operation even when the motor itself is fine.

Wiring connection problems between the control board and motor include broken wires, corroded connections, or terminals that have vibrated loose. Without complete electrical connection, power can’t reach the motor.

Immediate LE Checks

Step 1: Verify load size by opening the washer and assessing if you’ve overloaded. Remove half the load if the drum is packed full. Try running a cycle with the reduced load.

Step 2: Remove items if overloaded and run a test cycle with just a few items. If LE clears with a small load but returns with full loads, you’re consistently overloading. Reduce your typical load sizes.

Step 3: Manually rotate drum after unplugging the washer for safety. Reach inside and try rotating the drum by hand. It should turn with moderate, even resistance. If it won’t budge, something is mechanically jammed. If it spins completely freely with no resistance, the motor connection has failed.

Step 4: Check for jammed items by rotating the drum slowly and listening for scraping, clicking, or grinding sounds. These noises indicate something caught in the mechanism. You may need to remove the drum or access the pump area to extract jammed items.

Step 5: Listen for unusual sounds when you briefly power the washer (if the drum rotates freely by hand). Humming without rotation suggests electrical problems. Grinding or squealing indicates mechanical issues. Complete silence suggests no power is reaching the motor.

LE Troubleshooting by Severity

Overload response: Reduce load size, redistribute evenly, restart. If LE clears, you’ve solved it. Cost: $0.

Jammed items: Locate and remove obstruction. May require accessing pump, removing drum, or disassembling portions of the washer. DIY possible if you’re mechanically inclined. Professional service: $100-200.

Motor sounds abnormal: Requires diagnosis to identify motor failure, bearing issues, or control problems. Typically needs professional service. Costs vary widely: $200-450 depending on the failed component.

Drum won’t rotate manually: Indicates severe mechanical jamming or bearing seizure. Professional diagnosis essential. Bearing replacement: $200-350. Foreign object extraction: $100-200. More serious damage can exceed $400.

LE Repair Complexity

Simple overload: Free, anyone can do it.

Bearing replacement: Moderate to complex. Requires disassembling the washer drum, accessing bearings, pressing out old bearings, pressing in new ones, and reassembling. Many owners prefer professional service. Typical cost: $200-350 including parts and labor.

Motor replacement: Moderate complexity but high cost. The motor itself costs $150-250. Installation requires disconnecting all electrical connections (photographing before disconnecting helps), removing motor mounting, installing new motor, and reconnecting everything precisely. Professional service: $250-450 total.

Hall sensor: More accessible than motor replacement on many models but still requires accessing the motor area and connecting the new sensor properly. Professional service: $150-250.

3E/3C Error Code: Motor Tachometer Error

What 3E means is the failure of the tachometer sensor (often a hall sensor) that detects motor rotation speed. The control board needs accurate motor speed data to operate properly. When the tach sensor fails, the board can’t verify the motor is spinning at correct speeds.

3E vs. LE Differences

3E specifically indicates speed sensing failure rather than general motor problems. The motor might rotate fine, but the control system can’t detect or verify this rotation.

LE represents more general motor issues including complete failure to rotate, mechanical resistance, or electrical problems preventing operation.

Both prevent spinning but for different reasons. LE means the motor can’t turn the drum. 3E means the motor might be turning but the control system can’t sense it properly.

Resolving 3E

Often requires motor replacement because on Direct Drive systems, the hall sensor is typically integrated into the motor assembly. You can’t replace just the sensor separately.

Tach sensor integral to motor in most LG washers. Earlier models had separate tach sensors, but modern designs integrate sensing directly into the motor.

Professional repair needed in almost all cases. This isn’t a DIY-friendly repair unless you have significant appliance repair experience. The motor assembly replacement procedure is complex and requires precise reassembly.

CE Error Code: Current Error

What CE indicates is that the control board has detected electrical current flowing through the motor circuit that exceeds safe parameters. This overcurrent condition triggers a protective shutdown to prevent electrical fires, motor damage, or control board destruction.

CE Safety Implications

Prevents electrical fire by shutting down before excessive current creates dangerous heat in wiring. Sustained overcurrent causes wires to overheat, potentially melting insulation or igniting nearby materials.

Protects control board from damage. Semiconductor components on the control board have maximum current ratings. Exceeding these destroys chips and circuits immediately.

Indicates imminent motor failure in many cases. Motors drawing excessive current are often near complete failure. Winding shorts, bearing seizure, or mechanical binding make motors work harder, drawing more current.

Attempting to continue using a washer showing CE risks destroying the motor completely and potentially damaging the control board. Address CE immediately.

LG Washer Door and Lid Error Codes

Safety interlocks prevent washers from operating with open doors or lids. When these systems malfunction, door-related errors appear.

dE Error Code: Door Error

What dE means is that the washer’s safety interlock system can’t verify that the door is properly closed and locked. Modern washers won’t spin (and many won’t even start washing) with the door open because of safety concerns about rotating drums and splashing water.

dE on Front-Load Washers

Door latch issues are the most common dE cause on front-loaders. The door has a mechanical latch (a hook or tongue on the door) that engages a strike plate or catch mechanism on the washer body. This latch must engage positively for the door to be considered closed.

Strike plate misalignment occurs when the catch mechanism the latch hooks into shifts position slightly. This can happen from impacts, wear over time, or mounting screws working loose. Even slight misalignment prevents proper latch engagement.

Items caught in door seal prevent the door from closing flush enough for the latch to engage. Socks, underwear, small garments, or even accumulated lint can wedge between the door and the rubber boot seal, holding the door slightly ajar.

Lock mechanism failure means the electronic door lock that secures the door during operation has malfunctioned. Even if the door latches mechanically, the electronic lock must engage before the washer operates. A failed lock assembly prevents this.

dE Troubleshooting Front-Load

Step 1: Check door seal for obstructions by running your hand completely around the rubber boot gasket. Feel for anything caught between the rubber and the door, stuck to the rubber surface, or wedged in the folds of the boot. Remove anything you find.

Step 2: Close door firmly until click is heard. Don’t just push the door closed gently. Give it a firm push ensuring it seats fully. You should hear and feel a distinct click as the latch engages the strike. No click means the latch isn’t catching.

Step 3: Inspect latch and strike visually. Look at the latch mechanism on the door. Is it broken, worn, or missing? Check the strike plate on the washer body. Is it bent, loose, or misaligned? Either component damage can prevent proper engagement.

Step 4: Verify lock engages by listening carefully when you start a cycle. You should hear a click or clunk as the electronic lock activates, securing the door. No sound suggests lock failure.

Step 5: Test door switch if accessible (advanced troubleshooting). On some models, you can access the door lock assembly and test the switch with a multimeter. This requires some electrical knowledge and comfort working with washer components.

dE on Top-Load Washers

Lid lock mechanism on top-loaders works similarly but looks different from front-load systems. A motorized or solenoid-activated lock secures the lid during operation.

Lid switch problems occur when the switch that detects lid closure fails. The lid might close fine, but the electrical signal never reaches the control board.

Alignment issues happen if the lid sits slightly crooked, preventing proper alignment between the lid’s strike and the lock mechanism on the tub.

dE1 vs. dE2 Variants

dE1 specifically indicates a lock switch error on models. The switch that detects whether the lock is engaged has failed.

dE2 means lock stuck or failed mechanically. The lock mechanism itself won’t engage or won’t release, not just a sensing problem.

Different components help technicians identify exactly which part needs replacement without the need for extensive diagnosis.

Door Lock Repair

Lock assembly replacement on front-load washers costs $100-200 professionally. The lock assembly includes the latch mechanism, electronic lock, and associated switches. It mounts to the door opening and connects to the control board via wiring.

Switch replacement separately (if the lock mechanism works but just the switch failed) costs $75-150. Not all models allow switch-only replacement. Many use integrated assemblies.

Strike adjustment is sometimes free if it just requires tightening screws or slightly bending the strike to improve alignment. Other times it requires replacing the strike assembly if it’s damaged.

LE2 Error Code: Lid Lock Error (Top-Load)

LE2 specific meaning applies to top-load washers and indicates lid lock failure. This is completely different from motor-related LE codes. Unfortunately, LG uses “LE” for multiple unrelated errors, distinguished by context (front-load motor error vs. top-load lid error) and additional numbers (LE2 specifies lid lock).

Fixing LE2

Check lid alignment by observing how the lid sits when closed. It should be perfectly flat against the top of the washer with no gaps or tilting. Misalignment prevents the lock mechanism from engaging the lid strike properly.

Inspect lock mechanism visibly when you open the lid. Look for the motorized or solenoid-activated lock mechanism (usually on one side of the lid opening). Check for visible damage, ensure it moves freely, and verify nothing is blocking its operation.

Replace lid lock assembly when the mechanism is mechanically broken or electrically failed. Replacement assemblies cost $80-150 with professional installation adding $50-100 in labor. The assembly bolts to the washer top and connects electrically to the control board.

LG Washer Temperature and Sensor Error Codes

Temperature and water level sensing errors affect wash quality and can prevent cycles from running properly.

tE Error Code: Heating/Temperature Error

tE means that the washer’s water heating system isn’t functioning correctly, or temperature sensors aren’t providing expected readings. LG washers heat water internally for warm and hot cycles. When heating fails, tE appears.

tE Variants Explained

tE1 indicates inlet thermistor failure. This sensor detects baseline water temperature entering the washer.

tE2 signals exhaust thermistor error during and after heating.

tE3 points to different sensor locations on various models. The exact component varies, but all tE codes relate to temperature sensing or heating.

Impact of tE Errors

Cold water cycles still work because they don’t require heating or temperature sensing beyond basic cold water detection. You can continue washing in cold water while arranging heating system repair.

Warm/hot cycles fail since the washer can’t heat water or verify water has reached target temperature. The control board won’t run warm/hot cycles without functioning temperature systems.

Affects sanitize cycles which rely on very hot water (typically 150°F+) to kill bacteria and allergens. Without heating, sanitize becomes impossible.

tE Troubleshooting

Verify home hot water works. If your household hot water heater isn’t producing hot water, the washer can’t heat properly either (it supplements incoming hot water). Test hot water at a nearby faucet.

Check washer heater function by running a hot cycle and listening/feeling for the heating element. You might hear relay clicks as the heater activates or notice the washer exterior becoming warm near the heater location.

Test with cold water cycle to verify the washer otherwise functions normally. If cold cycles work fine but warm/hot cycles fail with tE, you’ve isolated the issue to the heating/temperature system.

Professional sensor replacement handles most tE errors since thermistors require accessing internal washer components, disconnecting the failed sensor, and installing the correct replacement. Cost typically ranges $150-300 including the thermistor ($30-60) and labor.

PE Error Code: Pressure Sensor Error

What PE indicates is that the pressure sensor monitoring water level isn’t providing readings the control board considers valid. This sensor (often called a pressure switch) tells the control board how much water is in the tub.

PE Effects

Overfilling is possible if the sensor fails in a way that makes the control board think the tub is empty when it’s actually full. The washer continues to fill, potentially overflowing.

Underfilling common when the sensor falsely indicates the tub is full. The washer stops filling prematurely, leaving insufficient water for proper washing.

Cycle timing is affected because the control board uses water level information to determine cycle progress. Incorrect level data disrupts timing calculations.

Fixing PE

Check pressure tube connecting the tub to the pressure sensor. This small rubber or plastic tube transmits air pressure from the tub. Blockages, kinks, or disconnections cause PE.

Verify connections at both the tub end and sensor end are secure. Push connections firmly onto their fittings.

Replace pressure switch if needed when the switch itself has failed electronically. The switch costs $40-80 typically, with professional replacement running $100-250 total including labor.

LG Washer Oversudsing and Foam Error Codes

Using incorrect detergent or too much of it creates suds-related errors that extend cycle times and potentially damage the washer.

Sud/5UD Error Code: Excessive Suds

What Sud means is that your washer has detected foam levels that exceed what it can handle effectively. The control board monitors suds through various means and triggers Sud when foam becomes problematic.

Why Sud Is Problematic

Prevents proper washing because excessive suds cushion clothes, reducing the mechanical action that removes soil. Clothes float in foam instead of agitating against each other.

Interferes with rinsing since foam traps detergent that won’t rinse away easily. Clothes come out with detergent residue that can irritate skin and dull colors.

Can damage pump seals over time. Foam enters the drain pump where it can break down pump seal materials, eventually causing leaks or pump failure.

Extends cycle time dramatically because the washer pauses when it detects excessive suds. It waits for foam to dissipate naturally (which can take 20-30 minutes) before continuing. Your 45-minute cycle might take 90 minutes.

Immediate Sud Solutions

Step 1: Reduce detergent amount for future loads. Sud means you’re using too much. Cut your detergent amount in half for the next load and see if Sud disappears.

Step 2: Run Rinse+Spin cycle to clear suds from the current load. This adds fresh water, dilutes the suds, and spins out the soapy water. You might need to run Rinse+Spin twice for heavily sudsy loads.

Step 3: Let washer sit 20-30 minutes if you prefer waiting over running additional cycles. Suds dissipate naturally given time. After waiting, restart the cycle. The washer will continue once foam levels drop.

Step 4: Switch to HE detergent only if you’re using regular detergent. High-efficiency washers absolutely require HE (High Efficiency) detergent. Regular detergent creates far too many suds.

Sud Prevention

Always use HE detergent in LG washers. HE detergent is specifically formulated for low-water, high-efficiency washers. The bottle or box will clearly say “HE” on it.

Follow detergent package directions for load size and water hardness. Manufacturers provide measurement guidelines for a reason.

Use less than recommended as a starting point. Detergent manufacturers want you to use more product (so you buy more). Start with 2/3 or even 1/2 the recommended amount. Modern detergents are concentrated and effective even in small doses.

Avoid powder detergent in soft water areas. Powder detergent in soft water tends to over-suds more than liquid. If you have a water softener (View on Amazon) or naturally soft water, use liquid HE detergent.

Sud vs. 5UD

Same error, different display styles on various LG models. Some show “Sud,” others display “5UD.” The meaning and troubleshooting are identical.

E2 Error Code: Drain Hose Problem

E2 indicates an issue with how your drain hose is installed rather than a clog or pump problem. It specifically highlights installation height issues.

Fixing E2

Adjust drain hose height to meet LG’s specifications. The drain hose should rise from the washer to a height of 39-96 inches above the floor, then descend into the standpipe or sink.

Ensure proper standpipe installation with the hose inserted only 6-8 inches into the standpipe. Deeper insertion can create an airlock. Shallower insertion might allow the hose to slip out.

Check for air gaps that prevent siphoning. The high loop in the drain hose prevents water from draining backward into the washer when it shouldn’t.

LG Washer Control Board and Electronic Errors

These errors indicate problems with the electronic systems that control washer operation, typically requiring professional service.

EE Error Code: EEPROM Error

What EE means is that the EEPROM chip on the control board has failed. EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) stores cycle settings, error history, and calibration data. When this memory chip fails, the control board loses critical information.

EE Implications

Control board replacement needed in almost all cases. The EEPROM is soldered to the control board. You can’t simply replace the chip without electronics expertise.

Can’t retain settings means even if you select a cycle, the washer might not remember settings or might default back to different settings unpredictably.

Cycles may not run correctly because the control board relies on stored programming. Without functioning EEPROM, cycles might behave erratically or not run at all.

EE Troubleshooting

Complete power reset attempt by unplugging the washer for 10-15 minutes. This occasionally clears EEPROM errors if they’re caused by corruption rather than chip failure.

Usually requires new control board when EE persists. Control boards cost $200-400 depending on model. Professional replacement including labor runs $300-500 total.

Professional service recommended because control board replacement requires disconnecting all wiring harnesses, removing the old board, installing the new board, and reconnecting everything precisely. Mistakes can damage the new board.

AE Error Code: Auto-Restart Error

What AE indicates is that the washer attempted to automatically restart after a power failure but encountered a problem during the restart process.

Clearing AE

Simple reset usually works by unplugging the washer briefly or pressing the power button to turn it off, then restarting fresh. AE rarely persists.

Restart cycle manually by selecting your desired cycle and pressing Start. The washer should operate normally.

Monitor for recurrence because if AE appears frequently without corresponding power failures, you might have electrical supply problems or control board issues worth investigating.

FO Error Code: Communication Error

What FO means is that the main control board and user interface board can’t communicate properly. These two boards (the main board that controls washer operation and the UI board that handles button presses and display) exchange information constantly. Communication failure prevents normal operation.

Fixing FO

Check ribbon cable connections linking the two boards. A flat multi-conductor ribbon cable typically connects main board to UI board. This cable can work loose from vibration, or individual conductors can break from repeated flexing.

Reset washer completely by unplugging for 10 minutes. Sometimes FO results from temporary communication glitches that reset clears.

Often needs board replacement when FO persists after checking connections and resetting. Either the main board, UI board, or the ribbon cable has failed. Diagnosis determines which component needs replacement. Costs range from $300-500 depending on which board failed.

Smart Diagnosis Deep Dive

Smart Diagnosis extends error code functionality dramatically, providing context and guidance that basic codes alone can’t offer.

Maximizing Smart Diagnosis Effectiveness

Preparation for diagnosis improves results. Ensure your smartphone connects to Wi-Fi with strong signal strength. Update the LG ThinQ app to the latest version before running diagnosis. Have your washer’s model number ready (located inside the door frame or on the back panel). Clear the area around the washer so you can access the control panel and hold your phone near it comfortably.

Running Advanced Diagnostics

Beyond basic error codes, Smart Diagnosis provides component stress testing (measuring how hard components are working), vibration analysis (detecting unusual movement patterns), water flow measurements (verifying fill and drain rates), and motor performance data (tracking motor current draw, speed accuracy, and efficiency).

Interpreting diagnostic results involves understanding the difference between primary issues (the main problem causing the error) and secondary issues (contributing factors or developing problems not severe enough to trigger separate errors).

Root cause identification goes beyond symptoms to underlying causes. For example, an OE error symptom has a root cause (clogged filter). Smart Diagnosis identifies both, often pinpointing the specific area where the clog is most likely located.

Repairing priority recommendations helps when multiple issues exist. The app tells you which to address first, which can wait, and how urgency levels compare.

Parts ordering assistance includes direct links to genuine LG parts or approved aftermarket alternatives. The app knows your exact model and recommends compatible components.

When Smart Diagnosis Saves Service Calls

DIY-fixable issues identified include filter cleaning needs (provides location and procedure), hose connection problems (shows which connection to check), user setting errors (explains what setting is wrong and how to correct it), and simple resets (guides you through proper reset procedures).

Service requirements identified early let you know immediately when professional help is needed. The app explains which component failed, provides difficulty ratings for DIY repair, and offers service scheduling.

Technician arrives prepared when you schedule through the app. The diagnostic data transfers to the technician automatically. They know what parts to bring, reducing return trips and saving time.

Reduces multiple service trips dramatically. Traditional service often requires a diagnostic visit, parts ordering, then a repair visit. Smart Diagnosis eliminates the diagnostic visit, potentially saving $75-150 in diagnostic fees.

LG Washing Machine Error Code Troubleshooting Strategies

Systematic approaches to error resolution save time and prevent unnecessary repairs.

Systematic Error Resolution Process

The 5-step approach:

Step 1: Identify exact error code

Write it down precisely. OE is different from 0E (zero versus letter O). Exact codes matter.

Step 2: Consult troubleshooting guide

Use this guide or your washer’s manual to understand what the code means.

Step 3: Attempt recommended basic fixes

Try the DIY solutions appropriate for that error before assuming you need service.

Step 4: Use Smart Diagnosis if available

Get deeper analysis if basic fixes don’t resolve the issue.

Step 5: Decide DIY vs. professional service

Be honest about your skills and comfort level. Some repairs are genuinely beyond typical homeowner capabilities.

DIY vs. Professional Service Decision Matrix

Error Category	DIY Success Rate	Professional Needed When	Typical DIY Time	Professional Cost
Water supply (IE, 4E)	80%	Valve replacement	30-60 min	$100-200
Drainage (OE, 5E)	90%	Pump motor failed	20-40 min	$150-250
Balance (UE, UB)	95%	Suspension damage	5-10 min	N/A
Door (dE)	70%	Lock assembly failed	15-30 min	$100-200
Motor (LE, 3E)	20%	Motor/sensor issues	N/A	$250-450
Temperature (tE)	15%	Heater/sensor failed	N/A	$150-300
Suds (Sud)	100%	Never needs professional	0-30 min	$0
Control (EE, FO)	5%	Board replacement	N/A	$300-500

This matrix helps you quickly assess whether attempting DIY makes sense for your situation.

Cost-Effectiveness Analysis

Repair cost ranges help you make informed decisions:

• Filter cleaning: $0 (DIY with tools you have)
• Inlet valve replacement: $100-200 professionally, $40-80 DIY parts only
• Drain pump replacement: $150-250 professionally, $80-120 DIY parts only
• Door lock assembly: $100-200 professionally, $60-100 DIY parts only
• Motor replacement: $250-450 professionally, $150-250 DIY parts only
• Control board: $300-500 professionally, $200-400 DIY parts only (high risk)

Age-based repair decisions matter significantly:

Under 5 years old: Repair almost always makes sense unless multiple expensive failures occur simultaneously. Your washer has years of useful life remaining.

5-10 years old: Repair makes sense if cost stays under $300. Beyond that, consider replacement especially if the washer has had multiple previous repairs.

Over 10 years old: Consider washing machine replacement (View on Amazon) for any repair over $200. At this age, other components are likely near end-of-life. Repairing one thing now means another will probably fail within months.

Compare repair costs to new washer prices ($400-900 for basic models, $900-1,800 for premium) factoring in your washer’s age and condition.

Preventing LG Washer Errors

Consistent maintenance prevents the majority of error codes from appearing.

Maintenance Schedule for Error Prevention

Weekly tasks:

• Wipe door seal and drum with dry cloth to prevent mildew
• Check for standing water in the door seal boot
• Leave door open between uses to allow interior drying

Monthly tasks:

• Clean detergent dispenser thoroughly, removing soap residue
• Run Tub Clean cycle to sanitize drum and internal components
• Inspect hoses for wear, bulging, or damage
• Clean drain pump filter even if OE hasn’t appeared

Quarterly tasks:

• Deep clean all compartments and removable components
• Check home water pressure at nearby faucets
• Inspect drain hose installation and routing
• Verify washer sits level on the floor

Annual tasks:

• Schedule professional inspection if budget allows
• Replace inlet hoses every 5 years regardless of appearance
• Check all water connections for leaks or corrosion
• Test all cycles to verify proper operation

Best Practices to Avoid Errors

Loading habits that prevent errors:

• Sort clothes by weight and fabric type before loading
• Don’t exceed 3/4 drum capacity to allow proper movement
• Empty all pockets completely before washing
• Use mesh laundry bags for small items, delicates, and anything with hooks

Detergent usage guidelines:

• Use only HE (High Efficiency) detergent, never regular
• Follow package directions for load size and water hardness
• Start with less than recommended amount, increase only if needed
• Avoid fabric softener overuse which leaves residue

Installation requirements for error prevention:

• Level washer precisely using a bubble level
• Ensure adequate water pressure (20 PSI minimum)
• Install drain hose at proper height (39-96 inches)
• Verify electrical requirements are met (dedicated circuit recommended)

Complete LG Washing Machine Error Code Reference Table

Comprehensive LG Washer Error Code Chart

Error Code	System Affected	What It Means	Urgency Level	DIY Fixable?	Typical Cost Range
IE/4E	Water Supply	No water entering washer	Medium	Usually	$0-200
OE/5E/SE	Drainage	Water won’t drain out	High	Usually	$0-250
UE/UB	Load Balance	Unbalanced load distribution	Low-Medium	Yes	$0
dE/dE1/dE2	Door/Lid	Door not closed/locked	Medium	Often	$0-200
LE	Motor/Drive	Motor can’t operate drum	High	Rarely	$0-450
3E/3C	Motor Sensor	Tach/speed sensor failed	High	No	$200-400
CE	Motor Current	Excessive current detected	High	No	$150-300
tE/tE1/tE2/tE3	Temperature	Heating or temp sensor error	Medium	Rarely	$150-300
1E/1C	Water Level	Level sensor malfunction	Medium	Sometimes	$100-250
PE	Pressure Sensor	Pressure switch error	Medium	Sometimes	$100-200
Sud/5UD	Detergent	Excessive suds detected	Low	Yes	$0
E2	Installation	Drain hose height issue	Low	Yes	$0
EE	Control Memory	EEPROM chip failed	High	No	$300-500
AE	Auto-Restart	Restart after power failure	Low	Yes	$0
FO	Communication	Board communication failed	Medium	Rarely	$300-500
nD	Drainage	Emphatic no drain warning	High	Usually	$0-250
dC	Balance/Door	Top-load unbalance or lid	Low	Yes	$0
LE2	Lid Lock	Top-load lid won’t lock	Medium	Sometimes	$100-200

Error Frequency Rankings

Understanding which errors you’re most likely to encounter helps you prioritize learning:

Most Common Errors (Account for 80% of all error codes):

1. OE – Drainage issues (35-40% of all errors) – Clogged filters, blocked hoses
2. UE – Unbalanced loads (25-30%) – Load distribution problems
3. IE – Water supply (10-12%) – Closed valves, clogged inlet screens
4. dE – Door errors (8-10%) – Latch or lock problems
5. Sud – Excessive detergent (5-7%) – Wrong detergent or too much

Moderate Frequency Errors (15% of total):

• LE – Motor issues (5-6%)
• tE – Temperature problems (4-5%)
• 1E/PE – Sensor errors (3-4%)

Rare Errors (5% of total):

• Control board failures (EE, FO)
• Communication errors
• Memory problems
• Motor sensor failures (3E)

This distribution tells you that focusing on drainage, balance, and water supply troubleshooting covers the vast majority of problems you’ll face.

Also Read:

• How to Fix an LG Washer That Sound Like Jet Engine
• Why Your LG Washer Makes Noise During Spinning
• LD Dryer Error Codes Meanings Explained

Frequently Asked Questions

What does OE mean on my LG washer and how do I fix it?

OE indicates a drainage error where water isn’t exiting the washer properly, almost always caused by a clogged drain pump filter, blocked drain hose, or foreign object jamming the pump impeller. To fix it, locate the drain pump filter access panel at the front bottom of your washer (usually lower left side), place towels underneath to catch water, slowly unscrew the filter cap to drain residual water, remove all debris from the filter and check the pump impeller behind it for obstructions, then reinstall the filter and test the washer. If OE persists after thorough filter cleaning, check the drain hose for kinks or blockages and verify your home’s drain line isn’t clogged by testing it with a bucket of water.

How do I clear UE error code on my LG washer?

UE means your load is too unevenly distributed for the washer to safely spin, requiring you to open the door, manually redistribute clothes evenly around the drum, remove items if overloaded, and restart the cycle.

The most effective fix involves pulling apart any bunched clothes, spreading heavy items like towels or jeans evenly around the drum rather than letting them clump together, and ensuring the load fills no more than 3/4 of the drum capacity to allow proper redistribution during spinning.

Also verify your washer sits level on the floor using a bubble level, as unlevel washers struggle with load balancing even when clothes are properly distributed, and adjust the leveling feet at each corner until the washer is perfectly level front-to-back and side-to-side.

What causes IE error code and is it serious?

IE indicates water supply problems preventing adequate water from entering the washer, caused by closed water supply valves, kinked inlet hoses, clogged inlet filter screens, low home water pressure below 20 PSI, or failed water inlet valves. While not a safety emergency, IE prevents the washer from operating at all since it can’t fill with water to wash clothes, so it requires prompt attention.

Fix IE by checking that both hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer are fully open, inspecting inlet hoses for kinks or damage, cleaning the small mesh filter screens inside the water inlet ports on the back of the washer, and verifying adequate water pressure at other fixtures in your home.

Why does my LG washer keep showing LE error?

Persistent LE errors indicate motor or drive system problems ranging from simple overloading (which you can fix by reducing load sizes) to serious motor failures, bearing seizures, or jammed items between the drum and tub requiring professional service.

Try reducing your load size to half the drum capacity and running a test cycle, manually rotating the drum by hand when unplugged to check for smooth rotation versus jamming or excessive resistance, and listening for unusual grinding, squealing, or humming sounds when the washer attempts to run.

If LE appears only with full loads but clears with small loads, you’re consistently overloading the washer and need to reduce typical load sizes, but if LE appears even with tiny loads and the drum shows resistance when rotated manually, you likely have bearing failure, motor problems, or jammed foreign objects requiring professional diagnosis costing $200-450 depending on the failed component.

What’s the difference between dE and dE2?

The dE error indicates general door closure problems where the washer can’t verify the door is properly closed and latched, while dE2 specifically identifies that the door lock switch itself has failed electrically even though the door may close mechanically.

Both prevent washer operation since the safety interlock system won’t allow spinning with the door unsecured, but dE is often fixable by checking for items caught in the door seal and ensuring the door closes firmly until you hear a click, whereas dE2 typically requires professional replacement of the door lock assembly since the electrical switch component has failed.

Troubleshooting starts identically for both codes with checking door closure and removing obstructions, but persistent dE2 after confirming the door closes properly indicates you need door lock assembly replacement costing $100-200 professionally.

How much does it cost to fix OE error professionally?

Professional OE error repair costs vary from $100-250 depending on whether the problem is a simple clogged filter that requires minimal labor or a failed drain pump motor requiring pump replacement. If a technician just needs to clean the filter and clear blockages, you’re looking at the minimum service call fee ($75-100 typically).

But if the drain pump motor has completely failed and needs replacement, expect $150-250 total including the pump assembly ($80-120) and labor for removal, installation, and testing. You can save the entire service call cost by cleaning the drain pump filter yourself, which takes 20-30 minutes and costs nothing beyond having old towels to catch water, making OE one of the most DIY-friendly errors on LG washers.

Can I fix tE error myself or do I need a technician?

Most tE temperature errors require professional service because they involve replacing internal thermistors (temperature sensors) or heating elements that require disassembling the washer, accessing components inside the drum area, disconnecting electrical connections, and installing replacement parts correctly.

You can attempt basic troubleshooting like verifying your home’s hot water heater is producing hot water and resetting the washer completely by unplugging for 10 minutes, but if tE persists, the thermistor ($30-60 part) or heating element ($60-120 part) has likely failed and needs replacement.

Professional repair typically costs $150-300 total including parts and the labor required to access internal components, properly disconnect and reconnect electrical connections, and test the repair, which most homeowners find more practical than attempting DIY thermistor replacement without appliance repair experience.

What does Sud error mean and how do I prevent it?

Sud (or 5UD) means excessive suds have been detected in your washer, caused by using too much detergent, using regular detergent instead of HE (High Efficiency) detergent, or washing in soft water with powder detergent that oversuds easily.

Prevent Sud by switching exclusively to HE detergent clearly marked “HE” on the bottle or box, using only half the amount recommended on the package as a starting point since detergent manufacturers overstate needed amounts, and avoiding powder detergents if you have a water softener or naturally soft water.

When Sud appears, run a Rinse+Spin cycle (possibly twice) to dilute and remove excess suds, or simply wait 20-30 minutes for foam to dissipate naturally before restarting the cycle, and remember that too much detergent actually reduces cleaning effectiveness because excessive foam cushions clothes preventing proper agitation rather than improving washing.

Conclusion

LG washer error codes transform mysterious malfunctions into specific diagnostic information that empowers you to respond appropriately and often resolve issues without professional help. From the ubiquitous OE drainage error that accounts for nearly 40% of all LG washer problems to the less common but more serious motor failures indicated by LE, understanding these codes helps you distinguish between five-minute fixes and situations requiring trained technicians.

The most valuable knowledge from this guide centers on the high-frequency errors you’re statistically most likely to encounter. OE drainage problems resolve with simple filter cleaning in 90% of cases, taking 20-30 minutes and costing nothing.

UE balance errors disappear when you redistribute loads evenly and avoid overloading. IE water supply issues clear when you check valves, clean inlet screens, and verify adequate water pressure. These three errors alone represent two-thirds of all LG washer problems, meaning mastering their troubleshooting solves the majority of issues you’ll face.

Smart Diagnosis through the LG ThinQ app elevates basic error codes into comprehensive diagnostic sessions when your washer supports this technology. Use it before calling for service to get detailed analysis, component-specific failure identification, and clear guidance on whether repairs are DIY-appropriate or require professional expertise.

Preventive maintenance remains your best defense against error codes appearing in the first place. Monthly drain filter cleaning prevents OE before it occurs. Proper detergent usage eliminates Sud errors entirely. Careful loading prevents UE balance problems. These simple habits cost nothing but save hundreds in avoided repairs and prevent the inconvenience of mid-cycle failures that disrupt your laundry routine.

When repairs become necessary, make cost-effective decisions by comparing repair expenses to your washer’s age and replacement cost. Spending $200 on repairs makes perfect sense for a three-year-old LG washer worth $1,200 new. That same $200 repair becomes questionable on an eleven-year-old washer nearing natural end-of-life. Use the cost guidance throughout this article to evaluate whether repair or replacement makes better economic sense for your specific situation.