You open your refrigerator expecting that familiar blast of cold air. Instead, you get warm air, complete silence, and milk that’s starting to smell off.
Here’s the weird part: the light works perfectly. It comes on bright and clear. But that’s the only thing functioning. No humming. No cooling. And no compressor running. Your food is slowly warming up, and you’re probably wondering if you need to call someone or just buy a new fridge.
When your refrigerator light comes on but nothing else works, you’re usually dealing with a tripped circuit breaker, failed compressor, broken temperature control thermostat, faulty start relay, defective control board, or issues with the overload protector. The light operates on a different circuit than the cooling components, so it can work even when everything else fails.
Most of these problems can be diagnosed at home, and some have simple fixes you can handle yourself. This guide will walk you through every possible reason your fridge light works but the cooling system doesn’t. You’ll get specific troubleshooting steps for LG, GE, Frigidaire, and Whirlpool refrigerators.
By the end, you’ll know exactly what’s wrong and whether you can fix it yourself or need to call a technician.
Refrigerator Light Comes On But Nothing Else – Quick Diagnostic
| Symptom | Most Likely Cause | DIY Fix? | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Light works, complete silence | Tripped breaker or unplugged | Yes | $0 |
| Light works, no compressor sound | Failed start relay | Yes | $15-40 |
| Light works, clicking sound | Bad compressor | Professional | $400-700 |
| Light works, controls don’t respond | Failed control board | Moderate | $150-400 |
| Light works, compressor hot but silent | Overload protector tripped | Yes | $20-50 |
| Light works, fan doesn’t run | Bad evaporator fan motor | Moderate | $50-150 |
| Light works, no cooling in fresh food | Broken thermostat | Moderate | $40-100 |
| Everything was working yesterday | Power surge damage | Professional | $200-800 |
Understanding Why Your Refrigerator Light Comes On But Nothing Else
Modern refrigerators have multiple electrical circuits and components. The interior light operates on its own simple circuit, powered directly from your home’s electrical supply.
It only needs basic power and a door switch to function. That’s why it can work even when the entire cooling system is dead.
The cooling components (compressor, evaporator fan, condenser fan, and control systems) operate on separate circuits. They need properly functioning control boards, relays, thermostats, and protective devices to start and run.
When one of these components fails, it can shut down the entire cooling operation. The light stays unaffected because it’s essentially independent.
This actually helps with diagnosis. It tells you right away that your fridge is receiving electrical power from your home’s circuit.
The problem isn’t a tripped breaker for the outlet itself. Instead, something within the refrigerator’s internal systems has failed.
Here’s what the data shows: approximately 35% of “light on but no cooling” cases involve the compressor start relay or overload protector. About 25% relate to control board failures.
Another 20% stem from thermostat issues. The remaining 20% involve actual compressor failure or wiring problems.
The good news? Most of these components are relatively inexpensive to replace. The challenge is accurate diagnosis, which this guide will help you nail down.
Step-by-Step Troubleshooting When Refrigerator Light Comes On But Nothing Else
Let’s start with the simplest checks and work our way to more complex diagnostics. Follow these steps in order for the most efficient troubleshooting process.
Check the Power Supply and Electrical Connections
Before you assume a major component has failed, rule out simple power issues. The light might be on, but the compressor circuit could still have power problems.
How to check:
Look at your refrigerator’s control panel or digital display. If it’s completely dark (no display, no lights except the interior bulb), you likely have a power issue.
Check your home’s circuit breaker panel for any tripped breakers. Refrigerators sometimes have dedicated circuits, especially newer models that draw 15-20 amps.
Unplug the refrigerator and inspect the power cord for damage, burns, or fraying. Look at the outlet itself for signs of burning or loose connections.
Plug the refrigerator back in and listen carefully at the back. You should hear a click or humming within 2-3 minutes as the compressor tries to start.
If you have a multimeter (View on Amazon), test the outlet for proper voltage. It should read 110-120 volts AC.
The fix:
If a breaker is tripped, reset it by switching it fully off then back on. If it trips again immediately, you have a short circuit that needs professional diagnosis.
For outlet issues, have a licensed electrician inspect and repair the circuit. Never attempt electrical outlet repairs yourself unless you’re qualified.
If the power cord is damaged, it can be replaced. However, this requires accessing the terminal block inside the refrigerator, which varies by model.
Check your owner’s manual or call a technician.
Test the Compressor Start Relay and Overload Protector
The start relay is one of the most common failure points in refrigerators. It provides the initial electrical boost to start the compressor motor.
The overload protector prevents the compressor from running if it overheats. When either fails, you get exactly the symptom you’re seeing: light on, no cooling.
How to check:
Pull your refrigerator away from the wall and find the compressor. It’s a black cylindrical component at the back bottom, usually on the right side.
The start relay is a small plastic box (about 2-3 inches) plugged directly onto the side of the compressor. Remove it by pulling firmly (it might be tight).
Shake the relay gently near your ear. If you hear rattling, the internal components have broken and it needs replacement.
Look for visible burn marks, melted plastic, or a burnt smell. These point to electrical failure.
The overload protector is usually a small round disc attached to or near the start relay. On newer models, it may be integrated into the relay assembly.
Using a multimeter, test the relay for continuity between the start and run terminals. It should show continuity in one direction but not the other (it’s a one-way device).
The fix:
Replacing a failed start relay is one of the easiest refrigerator repairs. The part costs $15-40 depending on your brand and model.
Order the correct replacement using your refrigerator’s model number (usually on a sticker inside the fridge or on the side wall). Major brands like GE, Frigidaire, Whirlpool, and LG have readily available parts.
Unplug the refrigerator before any repairs. Pull off the old relay and note which terminals connect to which wires (take a photo if needed).
Push the new relay firmly onto the compressor terminals. Make sure it’s seated completely because a loose connection won’t work.
Plug the refrigerator back in and wait 2-3 minutes. You should hear the compressor start.
If the overload protector has failed, it’s often replaced along with the relay as a combination part. Some models have separate overload protectors that can be replaced individually for $20-50.
Inspect the Temperature Control Thermostat
The thermostat is the temperature sensor and control switch that tells the compressor when to run. When it fails, the refrigerator won’t receive the signal to start cooling, even though it has power.
This is particularly common in refrigerators over 8-10 years old.
How to check:
Open your refrigerator and find the temperature control dial or electronic control panel. In older models, this is usually a dial in the fresh food section.
Try turning the temperature control to the coldest setting. Listen for a click and the sound of the compressor attempting to start within 1-2 minutes.
If nothing happens, the thermostat likely isn’t sending the start signal. For dial-type controls, the thermostat is directly behind the control dial.
For electronic controls, it’s usually a sensor probe attached to the evaporator coils inside the freezer compartment. Check your model’s service manual for the exact location.
Test with a multimeter by disconnecting the thermostat and checking for continuity. At room temperature, it should show continuity (closed circuit).
The fix:
Replacing a mechanical thermostat is moderately complex but doable for DIYers. The part costs $40-100 depending on the brand.
You’ll need to remove the temperature control housing, which varies by model. This usually involves removing a few screws and plastic clips inside the refrigerator.
Disconnect the wires from the old thermostat (label them or take a photo first). Connect the new thermostat to the same terminals.
Make sure the sensing bulb (a thin tube extending from the thermostat) is positioned correctly. It must make contact with the evaporator coils or the area it’s designed to sense.
For electronic thermostats or sensors, replacement is usually simpler. Unplug the sensor from its connector, remove it from its mounting bracket, and install the new one.
If you have a GE, Frigidaire, Whirlpool, or LG refrigerator with electronic controls, check for error codes on the display. These can pinpoint sensor failures specifically.
Examine the Main Control Board
The main control board is basically your refrigerator’s computer. It receives signals from thermostats and sensors, then controls the compressor, fans, and other components.
When it fails, you often get partial functionality like the light working but nothing else. Control boards can fail due to power surges, moisture exposure, or just aging components.
How to check:
Find the main control board, which is usually behind the refrigerator at the top or bottom, or inside the control panel area. You’ll need to remove a protective cover or panel to access it.
Look for obvious signs of failure: burnt components, capacitors that are bulging or leaking, scorch marks on the circuit board, or a burnt electronics smell.
Check for loose wire connections to the board. A single loose wire can shut down the entire cooling system.
If you have a multimeter and electrical knowledge, you can test specific relays and components on the board. However, this requires technical expertise and schematics for your model.
Many modern refrigerators (View on Amazon) have diagnostic modes. Check your owner’s manual to enter diagnostic mode and look for error codes.
The fix:
Control board replacement is more expensive, with parts ranging from $150-400 depending on your refrigerator brand and model. However, the actual replacement process is straightforward.
Unplug the refrigerator and take clear photos of all wire connections before disconnecting anything. The control board will have multiple wire harnesses plugged into it.
Remove the mounting screws holding the old board in place. Carefully unplug each wire harness by pulling on the connector (not the wires).
Install the new board in the same location and reconnect all harnesses exactly as they were. Double-check that each connection is secure.
Plug in the refrigerator and wait for it to initialize. Some models need a reset sequence (check your manual).
For Frigidaire, Whirlpool, GE, and LG refrigerators, always purchase the exact replacement board for your model number. Generic or “compatible” boards often don’t work correctly.
If you’re uncomfortable with electronics, this is a good time to call a professional. Incorrect installation can damage the new board.
Test the Compressor Functionality
The compressor is the most expensive component in your refrigerator. When it fails completely, the light works but you get no cooling and often no sound at all.
Sometimes a compressor will click repeatedly as it tries to start but can’t.
How to check:
Touch the compressor (the black cylinder at the back bottom). If it’s extremely hot (too hot to touch), it may have overheated and the overload protector shut it down.
If it’s cool or warm but silent, it’s not running at all. Listen carefully for clicking sounds every few minutes.
This shows the start relay is working but the compressor can’t start. If you hear absolutely nothing, the compressor isn’t receiving the start signal at all.
Use a multimeter to test the compressor’s electrical windings. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the start relay.
You’ll see three pins on the compressor. Test between each pair of pins for resistance.
You should get readings of 3-6 ohms between start and run, 2-4 ohms between run and common, and 5-10 ohms between start and common. If any reading shows infinite resistance (no continuity), the compressor windings are open and it has failed.
Test from each pin to the compressor body (ground). You should get no continuity (infinite resistance).
If you get continuity to ground, the compressor is shorted and has failed.
The fix:
Unfortunately, compressor replacement is expensive and often not worth it. The part alone costs $300-500, and labor adds another $200-300.
Total costs typically run $500-800. For refrigerators over 8-10 years old, replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair.
However, sometimes what looks like compressor failure is actually a failed overload protector or start relay. Always replace these inexpensive parts first before condemning the compressor.
If the compressor is just overheated (common after power outages), let the refrigerator sit unplugged for 4-6 hours. The overload protector may reset, allowing the compressor to run again.
For LG refrigerators specifically, there’s a known issue with compressor failures in models from 2014-2019. LG has settled class-action lawsuits and may cover repairs even out of warranty.
Check LG’s website or call customer service if you have an affected model.
Check the Evaporator and Condenser Fans
Refrigerators have two fans in most models. The evaporator fan circulates cold air from the freezer throughout the refrigerator.
The condenser fan cools the compressor and condenser coils. If either fails, you might have the compressor running but no cooling, or the compressor might not start at all due to safety switches.
How to check:
Open your freezer door and listen for fan noise. The evaporator fan should run when the compressor is running (and often stops when you open the door due to a safety switch).
If you hear no fan, manually spin the fan blade. Access it by removing the back panel inside the freezer compartment.
The blade should spin freely. If it’s stiff, the motor bearings have failed.
Check the condenser fan at the back of the refrigerator near the compressor. It should run whenever the compressor runs.
Look for obstructions like dust buildup, debris, or even mouse nests (common in garage refrigerators). Test the fan motor with a multimeter for continuity through the motor windings.
The fix:
Evaporator fan motor replacement costs $50-150 for parts. The installation requires accessing the freezer compartment’s interior.
Remove the back panel, disconnect the wire harness, remove the mounting bracket, and install the new motor. Make sure the fan blade is secured tightly to the motor shaft.
Condenser fan motor replacement is similar in cost but easier to access. Simply unplug the refrigerator, remove the rear cover, disconnect the old fan, and install the new one.
For Whirlpool refrigerators, the condenser fan is often integrated with a condenser fan motor housing that includes the mounting bracket. For GE models, check that the fan blade isn’t cracked or damaged.
Even a small crack can throw the fan off balance and cause the motor to fail. For Frigidaire refrigerators, make sure the fan blade is the correct type for your model because they’re not all interchangeable.
Investigate Wiring and Connection Issues
Sometimes the problem isn’t a failed component but rather a loose wire, corroded connection, or damaged wiring harness. This is especially common in refrigerators that have been moved recently or are 10+ years old.
How to check:
With the refrigerator unplugged, remove the rear access panel and any control panel covers. Visually inspect all visible wiring and connections.
Look for wires that are disconnected, loose at terminals, corroded (green or white buildup), or damaged with exposed copper. Check wire harnesses for cracks in the plastic connectors.
Pay special attention to the compressor terminal connections. These carry high current and can become loose or corroded.
Wiggle each wire connector gently while looking for movement. Properly connected harnesses should be snug and secure.
For newer refrigerators with electronic controls, check the ribbon cables connecting the control panel to the main board. These flat cables can become unseated or damaged.
The fix:
Reconnect any loose wires to their proper terminals. Clean corroded connections with electrical contact cleaner and a small wire brush.
If corrosion is severe, cut back the wire to clean copper and install a new terminal connector. These are available at hardware stores for $3-8.
Replace damaged wire harnesses completely rather than trying to tape or splice them. Refrigerator wiring carries significant current and improper repairs can cause fires.
For Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, and LG refrigerators, wiring harnesses are available as replacement parts. Order them using your model number for exact fit.
If you find extensive wiring damage or aren’t comfortable with electrical repairs, call a professional. Improper wiring repairs can be dangerous.
Brand-Specific Issues and Solutions
Different refrigerator brands have known issues that commonly cause the “light on but nothing else” problem. Here’s what to check for your specific brand.
GE Refrigerator Light Comes On But Nothing Else
GE refrigerators, particularly models from 2015-2021, have a known issue with the main control board. The board can fail early, causing the complete loss of cooling while the light continues to work.
Check for a recall or service bulletin for your specific model. GE has extended warranties on some affected models.
Another common GE issue is the adaptive defrost control board. This secondary board controls the defrost cycle and can shut down the compressor if it malfunctions.
It’s located near the evaporator coils in the freezer section. Testing requires a multimeter and technical knowledge, but replacement costs only $80-120.
GE refrigerators also tend to develop start relay failures earlier than other brands. If your GE fridge is 5-7 years old and the light works but nothing else does, replace the start relay first because it’s the most likely culprit.
Frigidaire Refrigerator Light Comes On But Nothing Else
Frigidaire refrigerators are prone to temperature control thermostat failures, especially in side-by-side and French door configurations. The thermostat often fails in the open position, which means it never sends the signal to start cooling.
Check the thermostat first on Frigidaire units. Frigidaire refrigerators also have issues with their defrost systems causing overheating of nearby control components.
If your Frigidaire has ice buildup in the freezer or frost on the back wall, the defrost system may have failed. This can lead to other component failures down the line.
For Frigidaire Gallery models specifically, the main control board has a higher failure rate than base models. These boards cost $200-350 to replace.
Check online for your model number because some have extended warranty coverage due to class-action settlements.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Light Comes On But Nothing Else
Whirlpool refrigerators (including Maytag and KitchenAid brands, which are made by Whirlpool) commonly experience compressor start relay failures. The symptoms are exactly what you’re seeing: light works, compressor silent.
Whirlpool uses specific relay designs that tend to fail after 7-10 years. The good news is they’re inexpensive ($15-30) and easy to replace.
Order a genuine Whirlpool part rather than aftermarket alternatives. Another Whirlpool-specific issue is the adaptive defrost control board (similar to GE).
This board can fail and shut down the compressor entirely. It’s located in the fresh food section behind the temperature control panel.
For newer Whirlpool models with digital displays, check for error codes. Press and hold the refrigerator and freezer temperature buttons simultaneously for 3-5 seconds to enter diagnostic mode.
Error codes will help you pinpoint the exact failed component.
LG Fridge Not Cooling But Light Is On
LG refrigerators have well-documented compressor failures, particularly in models manufactured between 2014 and 2019. If your LG fridge light is on but it’s not cooling, the compressor is the prime suspect.
LG settled multiple class-action lawsuits over this issue. They extended warranties to 10 years for affected compressors.
Call LG customer service with your model and serial number to check if you’re covered. Even if your standard warranty expired, you may qualify for free repair.
LG refrigerators also experience inverter linear compressor control board failures. These boards control the variable-speed compressor and can fail independently of the compressor itself.
Symptoms include the compressor running but not cooling effectively, or not running at all. Replacement costs $200-400 but may be covered under extended warranty.
For LG French door models specifically, check the temperature sensors in both the refrigerator and freezer compartments. These sensors fail more frequently in LG models than other brands.
They’re relatively inexpensive to replace ($30-60 each) and installation is straightforward.
When to Call a Professional
Some refrigerator repairs are beyond DIY capabilities or aren’t cost-effective to attempt yourself. Call a certified appliance technician if:
You’ve replaced the start relay and overload protector but the compressor still won’t run. This points to compressor failure or complex electrical issues requiring diagnostic equipment.
You smell gas or refrigerant (a sweet, chemical odor). The sealed refrigeration system has been compromised and requires EPA-certified technicians to repair.
The refrigerator is less than 3 years old and still under warranty. DIY repairs can void your manufacturer’s warranty.
Always use authorized service for warranty-covered appliances. You’ve tested multiple components and can’t pinpoint the problem. Professional technicians have diagnostic tools and experience that can quickly identify issues you might miss.
The repair requires handling refrigerant. This requires EPA Section 608 certification and is illegal for uncertified individuals to perform.
You’re uncomfortable working with electrical components. Refrigerators operate on 120V household current, which can be lethal if mishandled.
The estimated repair cost exceeds 50% of replacement cost. For refrigerators over 10 years old with compressor failure, replacement is usually the smarter financial decision.
Professional appliance repair typically costs $150-300 for diagnosis and simple repairs. Complex repairs like compressor replacement can exceed $700.
Get at least two quotes before proceeding. Many technicians charge a diagnostic fee ($75-100) that’s waived if you proceed with repairs.
Check reviews carefully and verify the technician is insured and licensed. For LG, GE, Frigidaire, and Whirlpool refrigerators, factory-authorized service technicians have access to technical bulletins and may identify recalls or extended warranty coverage you’re not aware of.
Prevention Tips to Avoid Future Refrigerator Cooling Failures
While some component failures are inevitable with age, these practices extend your refrigerator’s life and reduce the risk of sudden cooling failures.
Clean the condenser coils every 6 months. Dirty coils force the compressor to work harder and run hotter, significantly reducing its lifespan.
Pull the refrigerator out, vacuum the coils thoroughly, and wipe them with a coil brush. This single maintenance task can add 3-5 years to your refrigerator’s life.
Use a surge protector (View on Amazon). Power surges from lightning strikes or utility issues are a leading cause of control board and compressor failures.
A quality surge protector costs $30-100 and can prevent $500+ in repair costs. Avoid overloading the refrigerator. Blocking air vents with too much food reduces airflow and strains the cooling system.
Maintain proper clearance around air vents and make sure the door seals properly when closed. Check door gaskets every 3-6 months. A leaky door gasket lets warm air in, forcing the compressor to run constantly.
This shortens compressor life significantly. Test by closing the door on a dollar bill. You should feel resistance when pulling it out.
Address unusual noises immediately. Strange sounds from the compressor, fans, or other components are early warning signs.
Don’t ignore them until cooling fails completely. Keep the refrigerator away from heat sources. Don’t place it next to ovens, dishwashers, or in direct sunlight.
Excessive ambient heat forces all cooling components to work harder. Monitor temperature settings. Your refrigerator should be at 37-40°F and freezer at 0°F.
Going colder doesn’t preserve food better and stresses the cooling system. Use an appliance thermometer to verify accuracy.
Respond to power outages correctly. After a power outage, wait 5 minutes before plugging the refrigerator back in.
This allows pressure in the refrigeration system to equalize, preventing damage to the compressor.
Also Read: Is it Illegal to Put a Lock on Your Fridge? (Explained)
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my refrigerator light on but not making any noise?
Complete silence with the light on means the compressor isn’t running at all. The most common causes are a failed start relay, tripped overload protector, or broken thermostat.
Start by replacing the start relay ($15-40), which fails most frequently. If you hear no clicking sounds attempting to start, check that the thermostat is sending power to the compressor.
Use a multimeter to test for voltage at the compressor terminals. If voltage is present but the compressor won’t start, the compressor itself has likely failed.
How do I know if my refrigerator compressor is working?
Place your hand on the compressor (the black cylinder at the back bottom). A running compressor vibrates noticeably and feels warm (100-130°F) during operation.
A silent, cool compressor isn’t running. You can also listen carefully because running compressors produce a low humming or buzzing sound.
If you hear clicking every few minutes but no sustained running, the start relay is trying to start the compressor but failing. This points to either a bad start relay or a failed compressor.
What does it mean when my LG refrigerator light works but won’t cool?
LG refrigerators manufactured between 2014-2019 have widespread compressor failure issues. If your LG fridge light works but it’s not cooling, the linear compressor has likely failed.
LG has extended warranties to 10 years on affected models due to class-action settlements. Call LG customer support at 1-800-243-0000 with your model and serial number.
Even if your original warranty expired, you may qualify for free compressor replacement. The repair typically takes 2-3 hours and includes a new 5-year warranty on the replacement compressor.
Can a power surge cause my refrigerator light to work but stop cooling?
Absolutely. Power surges commonly damage the main control board, start relay, or compressor while leaving the simple light circuit functional.
The light operates on a basic circuit requiring minimal components. The cooling system involves sensitive electronics and relays vulnerable to voltage spikes.
If your refrigerator stopped working after a storm, power outage, or you noticed flickering lights in your home, suspect surge damage. Check the main control board for visible burn marks.
Many homeowner’s insurance policies cover appliance damage from power surges. Check with your provider before paying for repairs out of pocket.
Is it worth fixing a refrigerator when the light works but compressor doesn’t?
It depends on the age of the refrigerator and the actual problem. If the issue is a $20 start relay or $80 thermostat, absolutely fix it.
If the compressor has failed and the refrigerator is over 10 years old, replacement usually makes more financial sense. Compressor replacement costs $500-800 while a new refrigerator costs $800-2000.
Consider that a refrigerator with a failed compressor likely has other aging components that will fail soon. For refrigerators under 7 years old, repairs are usually worthwhile.
Check if your brand has extended warranty coverage for your model before making a decision.
Why does my GE refrigerator light work but everything else is dead?
GE refrigerators from 2015-2021 have a known main control board issue that causes exactly this symptom. The board fails early, shutting down all cooling functions while the light continues working.
Check GE’s website for recalls or service bulletins for your model number. Some affected models have extended warranty coverage.
If not covered by warranty, the main control board costs $200-350 to replace. Also check the start relay on GE models because they tend to fail earlier than other brands.
The relay is only $15-30 and takes 10 minutes to replace, making it worth trying first.
How long should a refrigerator compressor last before failing?
A properly maintained refrigerator compressor should last 12-15 years on average. Some high-quality models last 20+ years.
However, factors like dirty condenser coils, weak door seals, overloading, and excessive ambient heat significantly shorten compressor life. LG’s inverter linear compressors from 2014-2019 had manufacturing defects causing early failures at 3-7 years.
This led to class-action lawsuits and extended warranties. Most other major brands (GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire) have compressors that reliably reach 12-15 years with basic maintenance.
If your compressor fails before 7 years, check for warranty coverage because early failure often points to a manufacturing defect.
Conclusion
A refrigerator with a working light but no cooling isn’t necessarily a disaster requiring immediate replacement. In many cases, the fix is simple and inexpensive: a $20 start relay, a $50 thermostat, or just reconnecting a loose wire.
Even more complex repairs like control board replacement ($150-400) are usually more economical than buying a new refrigerator. The key is accurate diagnosis, which you’re now equipped to handle.
Start with the simplest checks and work systematically through the troubleshooting steps. Replace the start relay first since it’s the most common failure point and the cheapest fix.
Test the thermostat if the relay doesn’t solve the problem. Check the control board if you have the technical skills and tools.
If you reach the point where compressor replacement is necessary, carefully consider the age and overall condition of your refrigerator. For LG owners with affected models, absolutely check your extended warranty status before spending money on repairs.
The same applies to GE, Frigidaire, and Whirlpool owners because many have recalls or extended coverage they’re not aware of.
Remember that preventive maintenance dramatically reduces the risk of sudden cooling failures. Clean those condenser coils, check door seals, and don’t ignore warning signs.
Your refrigerator will reward you with years of reliable service, and you’ll avoid the midnight panic of discovering warm milk and melting ice cream.